| Notice - This is a very old FAQ from the Honda Performance website.
I have included it here since it contains a great deal of excellent technical information
that is no longer found in any of the FAQ's. Please do not email me or the Honda
Performance site with questions relating to it. I have also removed any email
addresses since many of the contributors to this FAQ are no longer invloved with the Honda
scene. Also do not expect many of the website links to work since this faq is very
old. |
0.0 Table of contents
Dictionary
1.0 Purpose/Background/Administrative/Tuning Primer
1.1 What's the purpose of this FAQ?
1.2 Who runs this FAQ? Who gets blamed?
1.3 What other Honda resources are on the Web?
1.4 Who can contribute to the FAQ?
1.5 I wanna jump on the Honda hop-up band wagon.
What do I do? (Tuning Primer)
1.6 I want more "low end", how will modifications affect this?
1.7 How will modifications hurt the life of the engine?
1.8 What are some good books/magazines/links to check out?
1.9 I have a question about working on my car, does this FAQ answer it?
1.10 Do aftermarket parts void my warranty?
1.11 What will my emissions be like after modifications?
1.12 How will OBD-II (on board diagnostics) respond to modifications?
1.13 Where can I go to find information on people's cars?
1.14 I've heard about this Ken Woods guy, why does does he act the way he does?
1.15 Why do people get so excited about so-and-so's car is
faster than someone else's car?
1.16 What are the golden rules?
1.17 What is a "rice boy"?
2.0 BreakDown --> Models and Generations & Analysis
Accord
Civics
CRX
delSol
Integra
Legend
NSX
Prelude
TL, RL, CL
Vigor
3.0 Engines
3.0 Engine Basics
3.1 What engine oil should I use? How often should I change it?
3.2 What's the difference between SOHC versus DOHC?
3.3 What's VTEC?
3.4 How often should I adjust my valves?
3.5 What is a porting & polished head job?
3.6 What benefit do I get from changing camshafts?
3.7 What are cam sprockets? What do they do?
3.8 What models and engines are out there?
3.9 Can the [xxx] engine be swapped into the [xxx] chassis?
3.10 What do I need to know before rebuilding my engine?
3.11 Do reprogrammed computer chips work?
3.12 Who makes the best VTEC cam?
3.13 What's a milled head?
3.14 Should I buy a VTEC controller? Can I make my own?
3.15 Can I just swap a VTEC cylinder head onto my non-VTEC motor?
3.16 What does a lightened crankshaft pulley do for me and who makes them?
3.17 What does an underdrive pulley do?
3.18 What's a blueprinted engine?
3.19 What's shotpeening?
3.20 What VTEC camshafts are compatible with each other?
3.21 How do I break in an engine?
3.22 Why is there a difference between USA and JDM engine power outputs?
3.23 Why do you give those valves an angled seat?
3.24 Any cures for a rough idle due to a camshaft(s) swap?
3.25 Comparison of B18A/B to B18C Integra engines
4.0 Intake System
4.1 Why do I need a cold air intake?
4.2 What's ram air?
4.3 What air filter is the best? Will more dirt be let in?
4.4 What intake system is the best?
4.5 What's a bored out throttle body?
4.6 What's the coolant bypass modification?
4.7 Why does my car idle bad after a t-body swap?
4.8 Why do I need to port match my intake manifold?
4.9 What is extrude hone?
4.10 What's a resonator? Why should I remove it?
4.11 Why should I adjust my throttle cable?
4.12 Is there hope for a 1.5 SOHC with the lousy intake?
4.13 What is the Tornado and how does it work?
4.14 How do I clean a HKS filter?
5.0 Exhaust Systems
5.1 How loud do exhausts get?
5.2 Which manufactured cat back system is the best?
5.3 I wanna save money and get a custom exhaust. What do I need to get?
5.4 What are headers?
5.5 Who makes the best headers?
5.6 How much power will I get by removing my catalytic converter?
5.7 What are the legal consequences of removing my catalytic converter?
5.8 Should I get a ceramic coated or stainless steel header?
5.9 Should I buy a high-flow catalytic converter?
6.0 NOS
6.1 Assorted Nitrous Oxide Information
6.2 How much NOS can my stock engine take?
6.3 What kind of gains should I expect with NOS?
6.4 How much does a refill of NOS Cost (15 pounds)?
6.5 What causes NOS backfire? Why should I use a purge valve?
6.6 Real World NOS Damage Stories
7.0 Supercharging
7.1 What is it like ordering a supercharger from Jackson Racing?
7.2 Are there any customer testomonials for the Jackson Racing supercharger?
7.3 Why do I have to use a stock engine with a Jackson Racing supercharger?
8.0 Turbocharging
8.1 What's in a DRAG turbo kit system?
8.2 Does VTEC work well with turbocharging?
8.3 How much horsepower will a Greddy Bolt-On Turbo Civic make?
8.4 How is boost regulated?
8.5 What's the difference between a manual and an electronic boost controller?
8.6 What's the best boost controller?
8.7 What's a blow off valve? Do I need it adjustable?
8.8 Does a turbocharged motor really need no backpressure?
8.9 Does a turbocharger add a significant restriction in the exhaust path?
8.10 Is boost all that matters, what's CFM have to do with it?
8.11 Do turbochargers really lag that much?
8.12 Why use an intercooler, if the intercooler itself creates a restriction?>
9.0 Ignition
9.1 Will changing my plug wires give me more hp?
9.2 What kind of plugs should I use?
9.3 What does a colder/hotter plug mean?
9.4 Why do I need to upgrade my ignition system?
9.5 How does advancing timing improve power?
9.6 How do I advance my timing?
9.7 What does indexing plugs do and how do I do it?
9.8 When should I widen my spark plug gap?
9.9 Why should I examine my spark plugs?
9.10 What good is an ignition unit rev limiter?
9.11 Do Nology wires deliver horsepower improvements?
9.12 [VTEC] Should I run stock platinum plugs or switch to copper?
10.0 Transmission
10.1 Why does my transmission crunch during shifts? How do I fix it?
10.2 What's clutch chatter?
10.3 What's a good performance clutch to get?
10.4 Why should I lighten my flywheel?
10.5 What's a limited slip differential (LSD)?
10.6 Should I use a Type R LSD or Quaiffe?
10.7 If I have a LSD, do I need to care for it differently?
10.8 What kind of aftermarket flywheels are out there?
10.9 Is my speedometer accurate when I am gunning for a top speed run?
10.10 How hard is it to convert an automatic transmission to a manual one?
10.11 How do I make modify my own shifter to have a shorter throw?
10.12 What's all this about gear ratios? Why mix and match trannies?
11.0 Brakes
11.1 What's brake fade?
11.2 What performance brake pads do I buy?
11.3 Why should I use cross drilled/slotted rotors?
11.4 What kind of brake fluid should I use?
What's wet and dry boiling temperature?
11.5 Do aftermarket brake lines improve stopping distances?
11.6 Who makes brake lines? And is DOT approval necessary?
11.7 How are brake fluids classified?
12.0 Wheels
12.0 Wheel basics (offset, diameter, width)
12.1 I wanna get a set of wheels, how do I make sure they're gonna fit?
12.2 How do I buy the best set of wheels for handling and acceleration?
12.3 What's a hubcentric wheel? Why do I need hubcentric adapters?
13.0 Tires
13.1 Will I really sacrifice my ride comfort with low profile tires?
13.2 What's a good tire pressure to set?
13.3 How do I pick a good tire?
13.4 Why do my tires wear out fast on my lowered Honda?
14.0 Suspension
14a.0 Springs
14a.1 How low can I go?
14a.2 What's the difference between a progressive versus linear rate spring?
14a.3 Do I need new struts if I get lowering springs?
14a.4 I want to cheap out and cut my springs. Why shouldn't I?
14a.5 Do I need to realign my car once lowering springs are installed?
14a.6 What's for the formula for spring rate?
14b.0 Struts/Shocks
14b.1 What's compression and rebound? Why adjust both?
14b.2 Should I get adjustable or non-adjustable struts/shocks?
14b.3 Should I cut my bumpstops if I lower my car?
14b.4 Why do my Tokico Illuminas bottom out so much on my 3rd Gen Integra?
14c.0 Swaybars
14c.1 How do sway bars work?
14c.2 Should I disconnect my front sway bar?
14c.3 Should I only get a rear sway bar?
14d.0 Chassis Braces/Roll cages
14e.0 Misc suspension components
14e.1 I've heard of camber kits to correct my lowered Honda's negative
camber problem. How do they work and who makes them?
14e.2 Why should I upgrade my bushings to poly-urethane ones?
14e.3 What kind of alignment settings should I get?
14e.4 How does lowering one end of the car affect weight distribution?
15.0 How to drive, and misc. racing questions
15.1 So what 1/4 mile times can I expect for [xxx] mods?
15.2 What's my 1/4 mile time? What's trap speed and what's E.T?
15.3 I wanna go to a real drag race track,
what kinds of things do I need to know? Drag Racing 101)
15.4 What's speed shifting and what's power shifting?
15.5 How do I calculate horsepower from trapspeed?
AEM Advanced Engine Management - a tuning shop specializing in
building engines, aftermarket EFI, and carbs.
CFM Cubic Feet Per Minute - unit of volumetric speed
DOHC Dual Over Head Camshafts - 2 camshafts placed on top
of the valves.
DOT Department Of Transportation - US Federal agency regulating
various aspects of transportation (more importantly automobiles)
DPR Dan Paramore Racing - a speed&machine shop performs engine work
work and modifications with some custom fabrication
EFI Eelectronic Fuel Injection - currently considered any system using a
microprocessor (i.e. a computer) connected to assorted sensors in order
to adjust (most importantly) fuel
delivery and timing.
ES Export Specification refers to manufacturer altering
product specifications for export.
FF refers to a drivetrain layout consisting of Front engine, Front wheel
drive
FPR Fuel Pressure Regulator
drive
FR refers to a drivetrain layout consisting of Front engine, Rear wheel
drive
JDM Japan Domestic Market
JG JG Engine Dynamics - a speed&machine shop performs engine
work and modifications
with some custom fabrication. Some people say "Just Garbage",
still they are
responsible for some very fast Hondas.
P&P Port & Polish - a cylinder head modification, see
engine section in FAQ
PYR Peter Yem Racing - a speed&machine shop performs engine work
work and modifications with some custom fabrication
PSI Pounds Per Sqaure Inch - unit of pressure (lbs/in^2), metric unit
is bar
Riceboy (derogatory) a person who customizes an Asian import
car to assume the look
of performance instead of actually doing the performance.
Ignorance is usually factored into this slam.
SOHC Single Over Head Camshaft - single camshaft
placed over the valves.
1.0 Purpose/Background/Administrative/Tuning Primer
This document tries to answer many frequently asked questions Honda
performance enthusiasts ask. This FAQ makes no attempt to be the
complete OR accurate
source of automotive information. It's the opinion of the FAQ editor that the
reader is responsible for their own automotive enlightenment. There are many
quality books that explain automotive performance. A trip to the library
might be in order.
It should be noted that front wheel drive cars are not the optimum
configuration for total performance. In drag racing and cornering, different
tricks and driving skills are needed to make a FWD car go fast. Make sure you
REALLY want to make a FWD car fast.
Currently, J.S. presides as Editor of the FAQ. Other FAQ assistants
are J.B. and A.C.. Some other honorable mentions are the unnamed
editors of the Integra web page.
You can blame/flame us all you want, but we take no legal responsibility for
the information contained within. Your car is your car, and how you hurt it
is all on you.
If you find some FAQ information to be controversial, please respond politely.
Polite opposing viewpoints will be noted in the FAQ. Rude ones will be
deleted on sight. In addition, please do not bombard the FAQ editor with
questions. The editor merely maintains the FAQ and doesn't have
the time or resources to answer everyone's personal questions.
The tone of the FAQ maybe construed as anti-performance Honda. This is far
from the truth. It's been proven that Hondas can be made to go fast, but
novice Honda performance-minded individuals should be given as much
resistance to ensure that hopping up their Honda is really what she/he
wants to do. Let's face it, money doesn't grow on trees for all of us. If it
did, you'd probably already have a really fast fast fast Honda
(or maybe something else). It's gonna take some money, time, and lots of
patience. And please take what speed shops say with a grain of salt, in
some cases a big one.
Keeping tabs on all the current web pages would be just as hard as keeping
tabs on all the import speed shops cropping up and dying off. Currently the
Honda Performance jump gate is the Temple Of VTEC maintained by J.P..
The current URL is : http://www.vtec.net/
Anyone can! If you have pertinent information please forward it to the FAQ
Editor. You will be credited with the information accordingly
(so watch out for the flames!)
Join the crowd!
The SINGLE biggest modification you can do to your car is to yourself. Make
sure you understand how to shift, launch, and corner. There are many books
and Internet resources discussing driving technique. You can have the
fastest car in the world and still only drive it as good as another person
in a Pinto.
Remember when choosing your performance parts, be sure to upgrade components
the furthest away from the motor and then closer. So get rid of the extremity
bottle necks before working on bottlenecks in the motor itself.
In other words, perform your modifications into the motor. Not haphazardly.
(i.e. 1) intake 2) exhaust 3) headers 4) throttle body 5) intake manifold
6) camshafts 7) sprockets 8) cylinder head etc etc )
Here's a short and sweet tuning primer.
Golden Rule 1) Ask yourself, "How much money do I have?"
Golden Rule 2) Now ask yourself, "How fast do I want to go?"
#2 is only limited by #1. So now pick your tuning path based on these
decisions. Do you want to stay normally aspirated? Turbocharged?
Supercharged? Or even nitrous oxide assisted?
Normally Aspirated : The engine alone is responsible for ingesting as
much air as possible. And remember air is never 100% oxygen.
Turbocharged : A snail shell looking device that is driven off exhaust
gases (imagine 2 pinwheels attached on a axle) As the exhaust wheel spins,
the intake wheel compresses air packing it into the engine. Choosing the
correct turbocharger is essential for optimum performance.
Supercharged : A belt driven compressor that forces air into the engine.
A supercharger functions similarly to a turbocharger. The difference
is the supercharger spins by a belt attached to the crankshaft pulley
(much like your A/C, power steering, and alternator)
Nitrous Oxide :
mail@removed.com (Lowbuck Brawler aka Weyland Jung)
Nitrous oxide is made up of 2 parts nitrogen and one part oxygen
(36% oxygen by weight). During the combustion process in an engine, at about
572 degrees F., nitrous breaks down and releases oxygen. This extra oxygen
creates additional power by allowing more fuel to be burned. Nitrogen acts to
buffer, or dampen the increased cylinder pressures helping to control the
combustion process. Nitrous also has a tremendous "intercooling" effect by
reducing intake charge temperatures by 60 to 75 degrees F.
Each has it's pros and cons. It's a good idea to understand them all before
proceeding with modifications.
Frank Lin (mail@removed.com) offers the following :
Okay, basically there are three ways to improve an engine's performance.
- Mechanical efficiency
- Volumetric efficiency
- Thermo efficiency
ME improvements - lighten/blance rotating engine assembly, increase
maxium operating RPM, reduce driventrain less (lighter rims, tranny
box improvement.)
VE improvements - intake, header, exhaust, manifolds, head work,
forced induction, cam profile/timing...
TE improvements - compression ratio, ignition, air/fuel ratio,
thermo barrier coatings.
So also keep these areas in mind when modifying your vehicle
for maximum performance!
Golden Rule 3) "There is no replacement for displacement."
Here's a cold hard reality check, Honda small displacement 4 cylinder
engines tend to be high revving horsepower geared engines. They do not
produce a healthy amount of torque WITHOUT some serious modifications. And
even then, most of this power will not come beneath 3,000 RPM.
Thankfully Hondas are fortunate enough to have reasonably light chassis
and a good gearing. Thus with the moderate amount of torque and higher amount
of horsepower they get by just fine. ;D
But if you truly seek that 1,000 RPM 300ft-lbs of torque, perhaps you should
buy a V8 engine car.
Asking your engine to make more power places greater wear and tear on it.
It's a fact of life. Regular maintenance and keeping an eye on performance
modifications are essential to engine life. If your modifications are bolt
on ones, you really don't have to worry.
Helm Factory Service Manual (get it from your local Honda/Acura dealer)
Helm's # : 800-782-4356
Secrets of Solo Racing
Handling, what it is and how to get it.
Honda/Acura Driver/Owner Guide
Turbochargers by Hugh MacInnes
From: Kurt Bilinski (mail@removed.com)
"
"Race Car Vehicle Dynamics" by Milliken and Milliken
All the "... To Win" books by Smith
"Race and Rally Car Source Book" by Staniforth
"Chassis Engineering" by Adams
"Race Car Engineering and Mechanics" by Van Valkenburgh
"Racing and Sports Car Chassis Design" by Constin and Phipps
"Race Car Aerodynamics" by Katz
"How to Make Your Car Handle" by Puhn
This stuff has known for years, let's use it. It's not like
these books are hard to find, just call Classic MotorBooks who's
ad is always in Road and Track, or 1-800-826-6600 and ask for a catalog."
From: "Shawn P. Church" (mail@removed.com)
"I did find a cool new book called "High Performance Honda Builder's Handbook"
by Joe Pettit. I thumbed through and decided to buy it (<$20). Seems
pretty cool and does have a section on turbocharging, specifically with
help from Turbonetics and RPS. I'll figure this stuff out yet. This
book seems like a must read for new Honda people, might save us a lot of
time (published late 1996). It also has all the engine codes, valve
sizes, compression ratios, combustion cc's, etc. so if the FAQ needs
anything, let me know."
From: ben (mail@removed.com)
"Honda builder's handbook by joe pettit
$14.75 available through Summit racing 1.800.230.3030"
Magnecor adds in :
We have listed a new Honda tech. book [the above mentioned] on our web site
that may interest you (we have no financial interest in the book, but we
are helping the writer out). It is a useful book.
It is at: http://www.magnecor.com/magnecor1/HONDA1.htm
From : Ken Woods (mail@removed.com)
"Actually, after thinking about this for a cpl of seconds, I decided to
give y'all a cpl of books to read. They include:
Showroom Stock Race Car Prep
by Nigel Macknight
Winning Autocross Solo II Competition
by Richard Turner and J.B. Miles
Race Car Enginerring and Mechanics
by Paul Van Valkenburgh
Auto Math Handbook
by John Lawlor"
From : Jerome Soh (mail@removed.com)
"Any of the "To Win" series by Carol Smith, Performance Handling by Don
Alexander (easy reading), Race Car Vehicle Dynamics by Milliken (_very_
involved, not for the mathematically challenged... but all in all
considered the 'bible')"
Super Street Magazine
Turbo & Hi-Tech Performance Magazine
Grassroots Motorsports Magazine
Sport Compact Car Magazine sorry, you will have to search for it here
Your favorite nudey magazine (recommended for periods of depression when you have
the need for speed, but not enough speed)
Thanks to Perry (mail@removed.com) for the good URL (Physics of Racing) :
http://members.home.net/rck/phor/"
No. This is a Honda Performance FAQ currently. Although many enthusiasts
perform the modifications themselves, the FAQ would grow
exponentially if we included detailed how-to steps for every
possible performance modification. My best advice is purchase
your Helm mechanic manual for your car. It has very detailed
explanations on how to work on the car. Then if you're still
confused, consult the list.
Only if they've been proven to be the cause of the problem.
The burden of proof does rest on the dealership.
IMNSHO, Honda/Acura does a poor job of customer satisfaction
as other owners and myself are usually given the run around
for problems clearly resulting from manufacturing defects.
YMMV, so you may want to restore the modifications back to stock
in order for the warranty process to be smoother.
Usually all the bolts on will actually lean out your motor while at speed.
Your only big problem is passing the idle portion of your local smog test.
Every state/country has its own regulations so check with your local
sources. If your modifications have sacrificed air flow down low
you can expect your idle emissions to be rich.
California checks for three categories : HC(PPM) CO(%) CO2(%)
The latter two are (I think!) unimportant as they are checks to ensure
that you truly are burning gas and the percentages are all correct
(you're not venting some exhaust elsewhere).
A 1993 Acura Integra LS has a .100ppm HC limit to pass in California.
With the catalytic converter in place with full bolt on modifications
it had a reading of .001 ppm. Without the cat, HC soared to .224.
Quite illegal.
Robert Wong (mail@removed.com) had these results :
HC(PPM) CO(%) CO2(%)
Limit 220 1.20
Reading 93 0.05 15.1
Results PASS PASS
1993 Honda Civic Si Hatchback
Iceman Wetland Intake
GReddy Exhaust
DC Sports Header
Advanced Timing
From: Philip M. Cohn (mail@removed.com)
"I just had my integra 91 inspected in maryland. All the units for the
test were in GPM not ppm, what is the difference, and if so what do my
readings of mean.
hydrocarbons Carbon Monox Nitrous Ox Carbon Diox
state regs 1.25 gpm 20.0 gpm 2.5 gpm no reg
my car .25 gpm 3.9 gpm .3 gpm 147.4 gpm
AEM intake mod only
From: Michael Paul Dietz (mail@removed.com)
HC(PPM) CO(%) CO2(%)
Limit 220 1.20
Reading 136 0.57 11.9
PASS PASS
Turbocharged 1995 GS-R w/ no cat.
From: patrick(mail@removed.com)
"As long as the air/fuel ratio is acceptable to OBD-II then there are no
problems. So as long as you give the car the additional fuel it needs w/
the nitrous then there will be absolutely no problems."
From: Ed (mail@removed.com)
"A friend installed a test pipe in his 96 GS-R today, and so far
no "check engine" light turning on. The test pipe has bungs welded in
for the O2 sensors, and was driven for at least 2 hours."
"Since your car is a pre-OBD II vehicle, the check engine light shouldn't
turn on when installing a test pipe. In OBD II (96-on) Hondas/Acuras, the second
O2 sensor is supposed to check catalytic converter efficiency by comparing its
readings with the first O2 sensor (which is what you have). Now that there is no
cat, does the ECU see this as an extremely efficient cat, or as a bad reading?
From this "experiment", I guess the OBD II system is compatible with a test
pipe."
From: Andre Sisman (mail@removed.com)
"I had my test pipe for 94 gsr, the engine light will not go on unless you
disconnect the oxygen sensor. If you install the O2 sensor properly, the
engine will work normally."
There are numerous car specific pages that have owner registries setup.
However EuJin has created an entire Honda Performance List registry at
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/9391/hpregistry.html.
Be sure to swing by and check out Who's Who.
From: mail@removed.comt (Jeff Kipe)
"Kaz, what do you think about adding a "beware Ken Woods" to the FAQ??"
DONE! Although I'm not Kazz, I'd figured I'll stick this bit in and humor
Jeff Kipe and Ken Woods. :D
Calling Ken Woods frank and outspoken would be an understatement.
Although he tends to promote an image of an ill-tempered arrogant car
enthusiast, he's a very knowledgable wrencher as well as a competent drag racer
(However I'm sure he has a nice side. I have learned that in private mail,
he willingly helps out the less knowledgable folk on Honda-Performance
List still. And I don't think he does it for an ego-stroking!)
Call him the Dennis Rodman of the Honda Performance List if you will! ;D
So beware! If you happen to post something foolish or ignorantly post
misguided technical information, Ken may respond in fury!
From : "Rick Kimmel" (mail@removed.com)
"To everyone offended by Ken:
It just amazes me how thin some people's skins are these days. They get a
bruised ego from WORDS and take everything so damn personally. Get real.
Life doesn't work that way. You either learn to get used to people like Ken
or you spend your whole life being a thought police or trying to get even or
trying to show up people.
You can't control Ken, but you can control how you feel about him. Trying
the former is a waste of time and effort because it will get you nowhere.
He's outside your circle of influence. So learn how to deal with it
yourself. If you don't like his posts, don't read them and don't reply to
them. If you read them, don't take them so personally. It's one person's
opinion. You can agree or disagree, but you have no right and no ability to
tell him what he can think or say. Doing so will only result in him
asserting his rights (in his own style, of course). Think about this for a
while.
Ken's one of the more sane and knowledgeable people on this list, especially
when it comes to drag racing, and I'm glad he's sticking around through all
this crap that some people on this list spew at him."
Honestly, I don't know why. When you really think about it for sometime, it all
comes down to who can write the bigger check.
So what if you have a 18 second car?!?!
It just means you have less money than someone with a 10 second car.
Duh! The real point is to enjoy what you have and to have fun enhancing it.
Do unto others, as you would have them do unto you.
Beauty is in the eye of the beholder.
If you have nothing nice to say, then don't say anything.
Change what you cannot accept, accept what you cannot change.
Ignorance is bliss, but knowledge is power.
It's easy to make enemies, harder to make friends.
Forgive and forget.
No one forces you to read every HP-list post.
Repeat after me : Courtesy, Patience, Tolerance, Maturity, and Respect
I don't know the original person who coined the term, but it has become
quite popular.
This term describes an individual who accessories a vehicle in such a
way that performance is simulated mostly via looks or the actual
modifications have hurt the car more than helped. Possible synonyms are
"wanna be" or "poser".
Various telltale signs are really large wheels and tires on cars
that don't have the torque to move them, cut springs, stickers plastered all
over, gaudy racing stripes, etc etc etc ...
Check out the original Rice Boy HomePage at http://riceboy.simplenet.com/riceboy/
for more information.
Accord
1986-1989 3rd Gen
1990-1993 4th Gen
1994-1997 5th Gen
1998-2001 6th Gen (coming soon!)
Performance Analysis : Why? Now before the flames start coming in,
the rantings of the DC Sports SiR followers, and the
Neuspeed Touring Car follower, let me just say the Accord is supposed
to be a comfortable sedan. And no street sedan is ever gonna come close
to a race prepped Touring Car. If you're still stubborn
to hop up your Accord, remember GR#1 and GR#2. Then ask
yourself why you just didn't start with a Prelude VTEC in the
first place.
Civics
1984-1987 3rd Gen
base engine
1342 cc, 4 cylinder, 8 valve, 2 barrel carb
DX, Si, sedan, and wagon :
1488 cc, 4 cylinder, 12 valve, 2 barrel carb
Si, 4WD wagon
PGM FI
1988-1991 4th Gen
DX, Si, LX, Wagon, 4WD
1493 cc, 4 cylinder, 12 valve, 16 valve on hatchbacks,
Dual Point FI, Multi Point FI on Si and 4WD wagon
1992-1995 5th Gen
DX, LX, EX, Si, hatch/coupe/4door
1.5L, 1.6 SOHC VTEC
1996-1999 6th Gen
DX, LX, EX, no Si
1.5L, 1.6 SOHC VTEC
Performance Analysis : Civics are the Mustangs/Camaros of Honda.
With a healthy power to weight ratio, a hopped up Civic
can give sports cars a serious run for the money.
Try to stay away from the wagons and the DXs okay?
If you stick with the Si or EX you'll be much happier.
DX's tend to have a wimpy intake/fuel injection and a wimpy motor. So
no big nitrous oxide shots or boost. Going hybrid with the light
chassis is choice though (VX, DX, CX).
CRX
1984-1987
1988-1991
Performance Analysis : The Poor Man's Sports Car. Based on the Civic
chassis, this car was made to handle and go fast. Again stick with
the Si version or you'll have to spend more money going around
non-Si nuances. DX's tend to have a wimpy intake/fuel injection and
a wimpy motor. So no big nitrous oxide shots or boost will make
it much faster. Going hybrid with the light chassis is choice
though (HF models).
delSol
1994-1997
Performance Analysis : The CRX born again. Honda did not engineer
this car to truly be a performance successor to the CRX. Anything
with VTEC means speed! So stick with the Si and VTEC models.
From: dave (mail@removed.com)
Subject: Re: HP: auto-xing Del Sols
"Douglas Coulthard wrote:
> Ok wow, what is with the del Sol bashing, I have a del Sol and love my car
> vey much and am looking into getting into Autocross, but you guys all seem
> to be into drag racing.
as i've mentioned before, we have attempted to build a 95 del sol
VTEC into a nationally competitive CSP autocross car. We had about
$15,000 worth of full blown race parts into it. No, not street parts
like you read about here. Well, it was competitive locally, and
even regionally, just like the guy you talk to in Calif.
But the truth is, is my CSP 85 CRX Si just ate it up. And so will
the other nationally competitive 1st gen CSP CRX Si's. It's the
weight of the del sol that kills it. After all, it's hard to beat
a 1700-1800 lb car with around 140-150+ HP. You would need at
least 220+ HP which can't be done within the SCCA Street Prepared
rules with the Del Sol VTEC engine. (believe me, we tried, and so
have many others) Not to mention handling : a 1700-1800 lb CRX can
pull over 1.1 lateral G's steady state on race tires. Mine will do
1.18 right, 1.17 left, and our del sol did 1.04 and 1.05 on my
wheels and tires.
But im not saying it's a bad car, I like them very much, but not for
a race car." [Ed : well maybe not for a Solo2 race car. ;D]
Integra
1986-1989
1990-1993
1994-1997
1998-2001 Coming soon?
Performance Analysis : The Civic's bigger brother. A little heavier,
but the bigger engine. Witness lil brothers seen stealing the engines
away out of their older brother's chassis. GS-R is the Integra bad
boy. And the Type-R is the race car on the street. An Integra
is a good choice for hopping up. The lower model (RS) might be choice,
since it's the lightest.
Legend
Performance Analysis : See Accord analysis.
NSX
1991-1997
Performance Analysis : The premier sports car
from Honda. The newer engine makes the car more
competitive in a straight line against
other Sports Cars.
Prelude
1989-1992
1992-1996
1997-
Performance Analysis : Bigger engine (TORQUE!) and a
good suspension make this car one of the 3
sporty/sports car from Honda. Again stick
with Si or VTEC and you won't go wrong.
It's a bit heavier, but as seen
in IMSA they make a good road racer.
Not as popular as Integras, may have
something to do with bang for buck.
TL, RL, CL
Performance Analysis : See Accord analysis.
Vigor
Performance Analysis : See Accord analysis.
Engine Basics
I've tried my best to explain the workings of the engine. For a different
point of view, try checking out : http://www.autoshop-online.com/auto101.html
An engine is a air pump. It takes in oxygen, adds fuel, compresses it,
burns it, and then expels the exhaust out. The controlled combustion energy
is converted to a (kinetic) mechanical one. The combustion drives the
crankshaft to turn which connected to a transmission causes the drive wheels
to spin.
Valves are devices to control opening and closing of orifices within
the cylinder head (combustion chamber) These valves are actuated by camshafts
via rocker arms. Some valves let air+fuel in, others expel exhaust.
Camshafts are axles with different kinds of lobes/bumps on them. The
shape/size of these lobes determine how and when the valves open and close.
The terms lift, duration, and overlap are used to describe a camshaft. Lift
refers to how high the camshaft opens a valve. Duration refers to how long
a camshaft keeps the valve open for. And overlap refers to how long an intake
and exhaust valve are both open at the same time.
On one end of the camshaft a gear called a camshaft sprocket is attached.
This keeps the camshaft in mechanical synchronization with the crankshaft.
Usually a belt or chain is used to run the sprockets and the crankshaft gear.
Remember your timing belt maintenance?
The cylinder head houses the combustion chamber of the engine as well
as the valvetrain, camshafts, and sparkplugs. The cylinder head mounts on top
of the engine block.
The engine block houses the crankshaft, rods, and pistons.
The pistons single axis upward and downward motion is converted to a
rotational one via the connecting rods to the crankshaft. Pistons can be
changed to control how effectively they compress the air/fuel mixture.
This is referred to as the compression ratio.
From: Morgan Fruchtnicht (mail@removed.com)
"We all know that displacement is the volume swept out by all the pistons
in an engine. Instead of displacement I think you want "combustion
chamber volume" or something to that effect."
Connecting rods attach the pistons to the crankshaft.
The crankshaft is the big axle you want to spin to make your car go. On one
end, the flywheel is attached.
Remember, in making an engine produce more power there are a lot of factors
involved (gas mileage, low end power, high end power, engine life, etc etc)
As often as you can afford it and as often as is practical for your
lifestyle. If you need a solid mileage number, every 3k miles depending on
driver abuse/environmental conditions is a good start. A good synthetic oil
is also recommended. Mobil1, Redline, and Castrol Syntec are current
favorites.
Do be careful with using synthetic oil in Rotary/Wankel engines. This is a
general warning for you folks w/ Mazdas in the family.
From: Daniel Wolstenholme (mail@removed.com)
"I've noticed that a very frequent question that's been asked on HP for years
is, "what grade (viscosity) engine oil should I use?" I know these seems
rather simple, and it befuddles me why people even ask it. The answer, as
I think it should be, is, "Check your owner's manual for the oil grade
recommended by your manufacturer. Most Honda engines specify 5W-30, but
check your manual to be sure. If given a choice between 5W-30 and 10W-30
because of prevailing temperatures in your area, 5W-30 will produce
better fuel economy, while 10W-30 will cause your engine to run slightly quieter."
[Ed : In my experience, I get no difference in fuel economy between the
aforementioned oil grades. I do use only 10W30 since I am in California.
I've heard wider ranges have more additives that do wear out (hence
the desire to use 10W30)
Someone else wrote that a Honda dealer said Honda does not recommend using
a synthetic engine oil. IMNSHO, this is bs.]
S ingle O ver H ead C amshaft
D ual O ver H ead C amshaft
SOHC has one cam above the cylinders controlling both sets of intake and
exhaust valves. While DOHC has one camshaft for intake valves and one for
exhaust valves.
As you can imagine it's harder mechanically to use one camshafts to control
all valves precisely. By having two camshafts, one for intake and one for
exhaust valves, you can fine tune valve control (more power)
Daryl Krzewinski (mail@removed.com) :
VTEC is Honda's trademarked acronym for Variable valve Timing and Electronic
lift Control. Put simply, it's a method of directly altering the cam profile
that valves "see", so that the optimum grind can be utilized at either high
or low rpm.
Ideally we'd like to control each valve independently with great precision.
Unfortunately this isn't practical/feasible yet. Thus the need for DOHC
(see 3.2) However even that is limited, imagine if we dynamically alter the
camshaft lobes for optimal configuration for the valves opening and closing
for a given range of RPMs? Essentially VTEC allows many different camshaft
profiles. Ideally you can have a low RPM cam, then kick in the big RPM cam.
You've got the best of both worlds. This is VTEC.
It's electronic in the sense that the whole setup is RPM activated by the
engine computer.
For more VTEC explanation, see http://integra.vtec.net/vtec.html
This is much like the oil question. Again as often as you can afford it and
as often as is practical for your lifestyle. Every 15k miles is a good start.
Probably before every race too.
The engine production process is not perfect. Imperfections in the casting
of parts leads to rough surfaces. A "port" usually involves remove/changing
the size/shape of an opening. A "polish" smoothens the surface. The overall
combination flows more than stock. Thus yielding better power.
Changing the shape improves the path of intake air/fuel, and polishing smooths
the path, reducing turbulence.
Honda engineers a compromise on their camshafts (with respect to gas mileage,
power, and idle quality)
Remember your engine basics? This is where valve lift, duration, and overlap
are played around with to produce more power out of an engine.
By going with a performance grind, you usually get more power up top. You
sacrifice some power down low as well as idle quality and gas mileage.
Also remember VTEC? This is where VTEC solves the camshaft problem elegantly.
From: "Frank/G.speed" (mail@removed.com)
"However, on the topic of lobe seperation, all most all
demostic V8's have one cam driving
all the valves. Thus the lobe seperation is "grinded" on to the cam
and is not changable. The same would be true for Honda SOHC engines.
On DOHC engines, when you have adjustable cam gears you are changing
the lobe seperation angle. You can still use adjustable cam gears on
SOHC but the change is less flexible and the outputs aren't as good.
The basic cam spec is lift and duration. Most cam grinder/manufacture
will tell you their lift and duration at .050" of lift. The reason is
because below that there isn't too much airflow action going on. Cam
profiling; the ramp design; accerelation rate is the real art of cam
design. You need to design it for high performance and still maintain
reliability.
JG cams are all regrinds, meaning that they are all smaller than the
factory spec and have smaller base circle. Most people with JG cams
have to adjust their valves very often.
I don't think anyone has produced raw blanks yet... other than Honda
themselves. Honda has excellent metallurgy (sp?) and I suppose it's
not that easy to duplicate.
It is possible to weld on materials to Honda cams, then regrind them
to spec. Z.Speed has made couple of sets of these cams (Comptech
cams are also finished the same way). This means the cams have factory
base circle, and should be much reliable than regular regrinds. But
they are expensive."
With an adjustable cam sprocket, you can adjust the camshaft timing away from
the mechanically set stock setting. Doing this you can fine tune the engine's
behavior to produce more power. You will again likely sacrifice gas mileage
as well as idle quality. A competent tuner and a dyno are essential to reap
the max benefits from this modification.
Apparently, people are having problems with installation of these parts.
Some people have broken the set bolts which results in tuning adjustments
thrown off. Consult the manufacturer for proper installation and torque
setting when installing these.
From: Ed (mail@removed.com)
">Frank/G.Speed wrote:
> As for broken studs, there has been two cases I know for Z.Speed gears.
> But in both cases it's simply overtightened.
Umm, make that two more cases. Both were on 1.8l VTEC engines, and
both weren't overtightened. To make sure this won't happen again, these two
friends of mine are getting some grade-8 bolts to replace 'em. Other than
the weak bolts, I have no other complaints about the Z-Speeds."
Update : There's been some recent discussion that on VTEC
engines, you only need one adjustable cam sprocket (bang/buck).
It seems that the additional sprocket, yields very minimal gains.
I forget which VTEC camshaft alone is responsible for the bigger
gains.
Too many for me to remember. Please send me the engine specs if you have
them.
Civic
From: Drew (not Boyles) Yamamoto, mail@removed.com
"From the 94' Civic catalogue straight from Honda HQ in Aoyama Japan"
Honda Civic HB
EG 3 EL D13B carburated 85HP@6300 SOHC 1.3l
EG 4 MX D15B dual carb 100HP@6300 SOHC 1.5l
EG 4 ETi D15B PGM-FI 94HP@5500 SOHC 1.5l
EG 4 VTi D15B PGM-FI 130HP@6800 SOHC 1.5l
EG 6 SiR B16A PGM-FI 170HP@7300 DOHC 1.6l
Honda Civic Ferio (sedan)
EG7 EL D13B carburated 85HP@6300 SOHC 1.3l
EG8 ML D15B carburated 91HP@6000 SOHC 1.5l
EG8 MX D15B dual carb 100HP@6300 SOHC 1.5l
EG8 ETi D15B PGM-FI 94HP@5500 SOHC 1.5l
EG8 VTi D15B PGM-FI 130HP@6800 SOHC 1.5l
EJ3 EXi ZC PGM-FI 130HP@6600 SOHC 1.6l
EG9 SiR B16A PGM-FI 170HP@7300 DOHC 1.6l
Honda Civic Ferio 4WD
EH1 RTX ZC PGM-FI 105@6300 SOHC 1.6l
EH1 RTSi ZC PHM-FI 130@6800 DOHC 1.6l
Integra
142hp@6300, 127 ft/lbs@5200 B18B1, 1.8 L DOHC from G3 Integra.
170hp@7600, 128 ft/lbs@6200 B18C1, 1.8 L DOHC VTEC from G3 Integra.
From: mail@removed.com
Subject: HP : SiR Confusion, EF 9 & EK 9 engines, and vtec vs non-vtec
"SiR Confusion
Matt Blodgett spoke of his SiR confusion. Basically, he was asking about
the ZC series of motors from Honda and about its relevance to the SiR.
Perhaps I can offer some information. It seems that the ZC name is for
a series of 1.6l engine (1590cc to be exact) that Honda puts on the
Civic/CRX/Integra range. This can be SOHC or DOHC. For each different
engine, its serial number will also be preceeded by a D16... something
that indicates its exact configuration.
[Ed: this coincides with Drew's information above.]
Thus, Civic/CRX 1.6-16 in UK uses a ZC engine which is 1590cc DOHC. I
forgot the D16... name. My previous car which is a Civic model
specifically for certain parts of South-East Asia also uses a ZC engine.
It's 1590cc SOHC Dual-Carb and the serial number is preceeded by D16Z1.
I believe if you are to check the 1.6lSOHC VTECs of US Civics, you will
also find its serial number preceeded by the D16... name. In fact if you
are to check a japanese catalog for the Civic/CRX, all of the 1.6l motors
will be called 'ZC' except for the DOHC VTEC.
The 1.6l (1595cc actually) DOHC VTEC is called the B16A. There are two
generations. The first generation appeared in Japan-only version of the
2nd gen Integra called the XSi in 1989. They appeared in the Civic/CRX
in end '89/1990 in the model called the SiR. This first generation
produces 160hp at 7600rpm in Japan. To add to the confusion, this
engine when used in the UK version of the CRX (called the 1.6-16VT model)
produces 'only' 150hp at a lower rpm (forgot exact number).
From late '91/92 onwards, B16As got revised and now Japan versions
produces 170hp at 7800rpm. These again appeared in the Japan-only Integra
XSi's and then in '92+ Civic/CRX DelSol SiRs when they appeared. IF you
are looking at used motors imported from Japan, look at the valve covers
to determine the generation of the B16A you are getting. The 1st gen
has DOHC wordings larger than VTEC. The current gen has VTEC wordings
larger than DOHC. Now, to REALLY add to the confusion, all B16As used
outside of Japan (in the UK Civic and DelSol and the US DelSol VTECs)
has 160hp at 7600rpm but has the new valve cover (ie VTEC wordings larger
than DOHC) so its important to _make sure_ exactly where the engine you
are getting comes from. (In Malaysia, they cut the car in half and
imports the half complete with engine into the country. Then we can
clearly see all the japanese wording in the engine bay !. In anycase,
the timing belt information on the valve cover will be in japanese).
BTW, just a slight digress. The B16A seems totally different from the
ZC. B16A = 1595cc, ZC = 1590cc. Their bore AND stroke are different. But
B18C have the same bore as B16A so it _could_ be true that they are
stroked B16As."
From: Jerome Soh (mail@removed.com)
Subject: HP: Weight difference of complete B18B1 and D16Z6
For those of you interested, I weighed both engines (complete with
tranny). The B18B1 is 40 lbs heavier. From info I have from TC Kline,
the B18C1 (vtec) is 20 lbs heavier on top of that, mostly up high
because of the vtec system. I've also got a complete run down of each
individual component that can be taken off the engine (alternator, dist,
starter, engine mounts, PS bracket, pressure plate, tranny alone,
clutch, all sorts of crap). Someone remind me to post that some time
this week. The tranny without pressure plate and clutch weighed 81 lbs.
Oh, the B18B1 weighed about 350 lbs total and the D16Z6 310 lbs (error
is about +/- 5 lbs max).
To : Adrian Teo (mail@removed.com)
> Well, the SOHC VTEC engine (D16Z6) puts out about 127bhp while the DOHC
> VTEC engine (B16A3) puts out about 160bhp
> For more on Civic/Integra engines and specs feel free to check out:
> http://falcon.asu.edu/~adrian/civic/engine.html
From : Chris Layne (mail@removed.com)
"I'm sure Adrian knows this, but for the people who don't, there are slight
differences.
The American 1992-1995 D16Z6 put out 125hp at it's power peak.
The American 1996-1997 D16Z6 put out 127hp at it's power peak.
The American 1992-1997 B16A3 put out 160hp at it's power peak.
The Japanese 1992-1997 B16A3 put out 170hp at it's power peak.
The Japanese 1989-1991 B16A put out 160hp at it's power peak."
"So you wanna go hybrid?" I can't begin to completely answer this question.
Currently, Integra powered Civics are the rage. There's talk of Prelude
DOHC VTEC motors getting dropped into Civics too. For your Civic engine
swapping information, check out http://www.westworld.com/~joe_r
Thanks Joe.
When rebuilding a motor, you need to think of your tuning path. Nitrous
oxide? Turbo/Supercharged? NA?
Choose your compression wisely or you'll need to buy stock in Octane Booster
companies. Recall your engine basics and chemistry (PV = nRT). The more air
and fuel you pack into a given volume, the higher the pressure and temperature
will be. This all leads to premature combustion and causes engine detonation
which can/will lead to destruction of the engine internals.
See http://integra.vtec.net/motorbuild.html for more precise information.
Thanks Justin.
This is a very touchy subject. Some people say they do, others don't.
Here are some general comments :
Every engine runs a little bit differently than others. How can
one company claim to have a chip that can boost power up by XX horsepower.
Make sure your chip company has a good dyno, and dyno proven
results.
Does your chip company custom tune to your car's setup. And just
how do they do so without your car at their shop?
Say your setup changes, what will your chip company do for you then?
A money back guarantee is a nice thing.
Raising your rev limiter does you no good unless you're making power up
there. Better keep an eye on the valvetrain.
From: Ken Woods (mail@removed.com)
"Lately there have been some posts from people wanting to increase the
redlines, or shift points on their cars.
Why?
A higher redline doesn't mean your car is faster, unless your valvestrain
can support it. If you have the stock valvetrain, you WILL have valve
float. (The valves can't keep up with the cams or the pistons. A Bad
Thing(tm)) The valves will smack into the pistons, and you'll end up with
a pile of junk metal, not an engine."
Get a straight answer on how easy it is to return the ECU to stock parameters.
Currently, Honda is the best VTEC cam maker. Putting the Japanese Type R
camshafts in has resulted in +7hp according to Eddie Kim @ Dynamic Autosports
on their DynoJet.
JG Engine Dynamics as well as DPR are both prototyping VTEC camshafts with
reported good success.
GUDE has always offered VTEC camshafts, but there have been mixed reports
to thier performance results.
From: mail@removed.com
I have talked about this before, but I was down in LA about a month or so ago
and they had a black 95 GSR there with the new JG cams, cam sprockets,
throttle body, header, intake and exhaust....It produced 190 hp at the
wheel!!!! JG claims 12-14hp at the wheels and I believe it!!! I talked to
Jaiver and he said NE one happy with these cams after purchase can return
them for a full refund...and you can't beat that!
From: mail@removed.com
"Well the GS-R that JG had sitting there when I went had their new VTEC cams
and he said he didn't notice ne difference in realiability at all...the only
thing he notice was the power increase...also the car idles like stock..."
From: Ron Blakely (mail@removed.com)
"Eddie @ Dynamic Autosports says they'll up hp by about 9[Ed : I heard 7]
ponies...pretty decent. Yes they are compatible w/ 94- Integs but I think you need
some kind of valve retainers or guides or something like that....sorry forgot
what they were called. I myself, am gonna go w/ the JG cams because they
are showing conistent hp increases of 12+ hp and that's before
tuning..._and_ there's a money back gaurantee!"
From: "Louis DeVirgilio" (mail@removed.com)
"I have tried JG and Gude DOHC VTEC cams, I don't like them.
Why ruin the great running, long lasting stock cams on
your $20,000 + GSR by grinding away on the factory cams?
Reason 1 for not regrinding cams:
There are effectively 4 cams in a 1.8 L VTEC, thus Honda does not
have to compromise on cam design. DOHC VTEC cams can offer great
low end and great top end, one would assume that there is less
power to be found by changing cams on a DOHC VTEC for the simple
reason that the stock cams did not have the same compromises that
other motors have (single cam VTEC or non VTEC).
Reason 2
The stock hardened Honda cams can last 100,000 to 200,000 miles with
no to minimal wear. Try that on your regrind cam. I've seen
regrinds show significant wear after only a few thousand miles. Oh
that's right the Regrind cams were Rehardend... and after a few
thousand miles they were Replaced with stock units and then Resold.
Reason 3
Honda offers a great (the best) cam. Yes you can get Honda
Type R cams from your local speed parts store. They fit, they last,
they work. There are not cheap. Get the Type R intake springs at
the same time. Use the GS-R intake springs on the exhaust side.
Keep the stock cams if you don't like the Type R sell them for
big $$$.
Reason 4
The Type R gets 195 HP with a whole bunch of stuff changed, do you
guys think that a GS-R will get 182 HP (+12) with just a cam change?
So intake manifold, air cleaner, cool air pickup, ported head,
undercut and re-angled intake valves, new high flow exhaust, brain,
TB, lightened flywheel and moly coated high comp pistons are only
worth 13 more HP? A cam is worth maybe 8 or 9 HP on a VTEC
and that is if it is working with all the other mods. I saw the
article that shows 12 HP for JG and another 15 HP with cam gears.
Yeah if you custom cam can get another 15 HP with gears maybe there
is something wrong with the cams?
More on this reason : A stock GSR will make more HP with gears, but
not 15 more. The point is a custom cam should have duration and overlap setup
correctly for more power, the gears let you change overlap, if you can get 15
more HP by changing overlap, why was this not designed into the custom cam?
I realize not all setup are the same and thus a custom cam may be tweaked
with adjustable gears... but 15 more HP over the 12 HP for cam alone.
I don't think so.
[Ed : As someone else pointed out, a stock B18C w/ dialed in cam sprockets
makes more power, does this mean the stock B18C camshafts are faulty?
VTEC allows for different cam profiles, VTEC DOES NOT
allow for dynamic/realtime adjustable valve timing (a la
Toyota's VVT or the Skyline GT-R's computer controlled sprocket)
To a large extent overlap is controlled simply by camshaft installation
(except for SOHC engines). IMHO, I'd imagine regrinding/manipulating a camshaft's
lobes for a certain degree offset as expensive and unreliable. Or you can
reweld the position of the ends of the camshaft for the offset. The best solution
would be for a custom billet camshaft (which is a lot of money too) By far the
easiest solution, is an adjustable cam sprocket with the reground cams, since you
would be dyno-tuning the engine anyhow.]
Reason 5
The stock GSR cam peaks at 7600, the Type R at 8000, fuel cut off at
8200, 8500 respectively. Larger cams move the power further up
the curve, how much higher do ya want to rev? I try to keep my
1.8 below 9000 RPM. All kinds of exotic stuff is needed in a motor
that goes above 9000 RPM, and most of the stuff does not like street
use. Take it from a guy with two daily driven Integras, 9000 RPM is
about all a street motor can take and still go 100,000 miles.
Reason 6
Regrind cams can change the lift and duration but can they keep the
same ramp profiles as a billet or factory cams? Look at a GSR cam
notice the lifting face is flat, yep it is flat... talking about an
aggressive profile; no lift then bam!! slap the valve open. Yes the
regrind might have more lift and duration at zero lash, but how
does the duration compare at .020 .050 or .100 ? The last VTEC
regrind I checked had way more duration at .020 and less duration at
.050 and it is @.050 where the flow really starts.
Reason 7
To use a larger cam: Type R or better, you must have all the other
mods. My large tube 4 to 1 header has NO ground clearance, My 3
inch exhaust can wake up the dead. My heavily ported head has
zero gas milage and low end torque. My high comp pistons want
only race gas, My con rods are ready to blow thru the block, My
custom multiangle valve job seems to last about 6 months before
they give up their seal. Why do you think I have two Integras?
I can change a head in 4 hours and a motor out in 8 hours. I
have a lot of practice.
Reason 8
GSR motors are big bucks. So when your cheap regrinds with their
pitiful no spec cam profiles and sagging valves springs decide to let
that stock intake valve float/bounce because the regrinds have
non-engineered deceleration ramps. You would be out a motor...
tuff. I have two seperate GS-R pistons both died because of valve
train failure (of course the motor went also). One valve train from
JG and one from Gude. I don't have a failed piston from a Type R top
end (yet).
To sum it up, save your money and either by a billet cam from OLM-R
or Type R cams from your local speed shop. Anything less is a waste
of money, time, and maybe a motor. Don't buy a cam if that is the
only thing you can afford.
To prove me wrong, let's have a report from someone with Gude/JG cams
before and after dyno runs/ 1/4 mile runs; also a wear report after
20,000 miles. Here we go with my Type R cams:
20,000 miles: no wear on cams, no valve adjustment need in that time.
Power till 8500 and shift at 8800, no loss in lowend, no decrease in
MPG.
best time before cams 14.79 @ 94 MPH @Hawaii Raceway park, stock
tires, shift at 8600 top of third at 8400+ RPM thru the traps
best time after Type R cams 14.51 @ 98 MPH with Vericome, yes I
calibrate my Vericome to reflect close to my true times. yes same
car, same road, same driver, same distance. I found my Vericome is
more constant match with MPH then with time. top of third at
8800 RPM at end of 1/4 mile.
I have tried to short shift third to fourth but my time fall off by 2
tenths."
This is a process of shaving off a little of the bottom (mounting side
to the engine block) of the cylinder head. By doing so, you
reduce the size of the combustion chamber (you have effectively
raised your compression ratio, good for power)
Be careful about milling your head. I've been told the ~correct~
way to change your compression ratio is to use ~domed~ pistons.
A much more expensive route than milling the head (see why people
mill now?)
By milling your head, you may throw off your camshaft timing (see
adjustable cam sprocket), your ignition timing will be off too
(the distributor reads input off the intake camshaft),
and you may introduce more timing belt slack.
People claim milling the cylinder head ever so imperceptably will not
throw off these three areas too much (why bother then right?). I've
always regarded Honda 4 cylinder engines as the epitome of conventional
engine engineering. With astronomically high RPM power range,
milling your head just seems to me like pulling out the pin
on a grenade.
Now before every milled head groupie writes in saying a milled
head is the bomb etc etc., it's your valvetrain and your money.
You've been warned.
A VTEC controller varies the RPM kick in point for the VTEC system (i.e. the high
RPM camshaft profile) They're pretty much knob adjusting devices
I believe (is there a fully digital one?)
By modifying your car, you may not be engaging VTEC at the optimal point.
Only by extensive dyno time can you determine the optimum point.
No one tuner has definitively proven that a VTEC controller
yields a good power improvement.
Simply purchasing a controller will not make your car faster. You need
to dyno tune this device.
From:
"I am not sure who said it... I read it on one of the posts listed among other stuff
that's "hyped-up but actually doesn't work..."
If you know how to use it correctly, VTEC controllers do help out.
Now, my experience with these relates to the SPOON VTEC Controller in specific.
I don't know if any of you guys have tried this out... but when the VTEC kicks in...
the timing is advanced (ignition timing that is..) When your car is on the dyno...
especially if you have cams, there is a very huge spike when the VTEC kicks in. On my
car when the controller is set at 6000 rpm, there is a 45 (wheel horsepower) power
spike on the dyno sheet. On the road... this kicks the tires loose in 1st gear. This
kind of power is useless, therefore set the VTEC to kick in lower... now you don't want
this at idle obviously because the low-rpm power production of the VTEC portion of the
camshafts don't produce too much power. In drag racing, a VTEC controller is not really
necesary since most of us launch above 6000 rpms anyway. But on street tires... it
helps out. I launch at 1700 rpm on the street. If I wait until 5000 rpm+ for the
VTEC I get my ass kicked out of the hole. If I the VTEC kicks in at 3000 let's say...
the tires don't start spinning after 6000 rpm.
Also, to get a smooth horsepower curve, having the VTEC kick in at around 4800 rpm gives
a relatively smooth transition. Hardly any power spike. Having it too low bogs
the car in the lower rpm range and having it at 6000 is like brrrrrr...BAAAAAHHHHH
(I just like that sound.. )
When I had my 1.6 SOHC VTEC in the coupe I had the SPOON VTEC Controller and I actually
raced someone about 4 times having it set at different rpms. Launching the same, but
varying the transition rpm, is about 1-2 car lengths (plus and minus) in the 1/4 mile.
Now, racing someone is not as accurate as E.T, but it's allright. If it can make a
difference on the SOHC, think what it does on the DOHC's!!
P.S. The SPOON VTEC Controller works on the 1992 GSR, 1992-up Civic, 1994-up GSR,
1994-up Accords and Preludes."
Several HP-list members have made their own VTEC controller.
Although very basic and crude, it can be made very cheaply
in comparison to Japanese units.
It involves triggering the VTEC wire (off the engine ECU via +12V)
based on RPM. MSD sells a RPM actuator device or a tap into a shift lite
would do the same. Or you can jimmyrig one up if you're electronically inclined.
Nope. The best thing to do is to swap in the whole motor w/ ECU. VTEC motors have
a different ECU setup as well as special engine block (crankshaft, oil passages,
oil cooler, etc) to ensure high rpm longevity. The head and valevtrain just
don't cut it alone.
From :
"i was able to buy the latest issue of REVspeed
magazine and Option magazine. both have very interesting articles about
the civic type r and the b16b engine that it has. and acoording to rev
speed magazine, you can fit a b20 head onto a b18 block, and also the b16
head onto a b18 block, which actually is the integra type R's b18c."
REQUEST : I have been getting reports of people claiming that a VTEC
head swap is possible. While Sport Compact Car has documented a Civic w/ a 1.5L motor
that swapped on a 1.6 SOHC VTEC head, I vaguely recall that B16 and B18 series
VTEC motors and NON-VTEC motors do not have compatible head gasket configurations
amongst other important features. Please confirm or deny these claims. Thanks.
The idea here is much the same as the lightened flywheel. Reduce the amount
of mass your engine is using energy to move. I've held a B18A OEM pulley,
it's not extremely heavy. It is heavy enough to discourage you from dropping on your
foot. So it looks like some power could be freed up by swapping the pulley
out.
Some companies making light crankshaft pulleys are Unorthodox Racing,
Z.Speed (thought I saw it on the web page, can't find it now),
and possibly DC Sports.
By changing the diameter of pulleys running off your engine you can increase
or decrease the amount of revolutions the pulleys get (think about gear ratios
for a moment, and general gearing thoughts) Anyhow, using an underdrive pulley
you can make less revolutions, sapping less power. This is good to use on say
power steering or A/C. I do think that underdriving your accessories probably
sacrifices how well they perform. You'll probably get less steering assist
and cooling. I don't think it's wise to mess with your alternator.
From: Alan Tang (mail@removed.com)
www.bogo.co.uk./alantang/civic/html/civic1.htm
"Blue printing is the most expensive way to gain power from your engine.
It involves stripping the engine and re-building it as close a possible
to the engineers 'blue prints' for the engine.
Blue printing is only used in motorsport where there are strict rules on
the mods that can be done to an engine. Blue printing does not really
modify the engine, only makes it closer in specification to the original
blue print and thus more power. However, due to this, the engine will
also be more balanced and stronger...
Power gains can be from zero to 40bhp... depending on engine. With a
Honda I guess you would gain around 15bhp...
Due to the high labour and skill involved, blueprinting is very
expensive. I reckon anything from US$1000 upwards... (this is a rough
guess!)
Pause for thought.... A top Ford Motorsport UK engineer said you could
get the same results as blueprinting by driving your car to red line
from new (no run in period) for 2,000 miles."
From:SolBlade (mail@removed.com)
"SHOT PEENING is a method of cold working in which compressive stresses
are induced in the exposed surface layers of metallic objects by the
impingement of a stream of shot, directed at the metal surface at high
velocity and under controlled conditions. It differs from blast cleaning
in primary purpose and in the extent to which it is controlled to yield
accurate and reproducible results. Although shot peening cleans the
surface being peened, this function is incidental; the major purpose of
shot peening is to increase fatigue strength. The process has other
useful applications, such as relieving tensile stresses that contribute to
stress-corrosion cracking, forming and straightening of metal parts, and
testing the adhesion of silver plate on steel."
From: ASM Metals Handbook, eighth edition, volume 2, "Mechanical
Finishing, Shot Peening", page 398, first paragraph.
From: "Frank/G.speed" (mail@removed.comm)
"B16A, B17A, B18C cams are all interchangable. B18C and B16A cams
are slightly different. B17A cam is that same as the B16A (notice
they produce the peak HP and peak torque at the same RPM; 7600
RPM and 7000 RPM respectively).
JG cams, from what I know it's something like, a shop* let JG have
a set of Japanese Type-R cams to test, and never got it back...
since then JG started to sell DOHC VTEC cams. I dunno, you figure
it out. Not sure if it's the exact duplicate (JG's are regrinds,
with smaller base circle; not the rewelded and refinished cams
which are costly) but you can bet it is based on the Type-R cam.
* shop name withheld as it's not first hand info, regard this as
gossip.
PS, I'm glad Louie brought up the point of durability. For a soild
power gain + factory quality, it's hard to beat the Type-R valve
train upgrades. Althought it ain't cheap. For a streetable
naturally aspirated motor that's the only way to go. For race
motors I can sell you Mugen Group-A cams and valve springs. This
cam makes power to 9500 RPM and beyond and idles at around 2000 RPM.
Are you ready for it on the street?"
Ken Woods says :
"Here's what I do, and recommend.
1. Use regular oil, not synthetic, during break-in.
2. When you first start it up, let it COMPLETELY warm up, not just kinda
warm, all the way warm.
3. While it's still hot, check and see if the head needs to be retorqued.
4. Check the timing again, as well as the valve adjustment.
5. Very slowly and using the lowest rpms as possbile get to about
65mph. Put the car in 4th gear. The coast, in neutral, to about 30.
6. Go from 30 to 65, in 4th gear about 20 times. This allows the rings to
seat, so do it right, and do it 20 times.
7. Drive EASY for about 150 miles. Change the oil. Still just the
regular oil.
8. Drive easy for another 150 miles. Change the oil again. Still just the
regular oil.
(yeah, I realize that steps 7 and 8 say the same thing. Do it twice)
9. Drive it kinda easy (no trips to redline) for another 1500 miles.
10. Change the oil again. Now you can use the expensive synthetics if you
want to.
11. After that, the motor is pretty much broken in, so go run the dang
thing to see how fast it is!!!!"
From: Pasene R. Faifua (mail@removed.com)
"Due to different pollution standards, different fuel RON octane contents
around the world, and how pretty much all the Japanese Automobile makers
use their JDM for 'banzai specials'.
It is unlikely that you can simply retune your car to JDM levels if it's
built to a particular Export Specification/ES.
Myself, WongKN, Alan Tang, and Kaz Mori have discussed previously trying to
detail what differences are there to ES compared to JDM specifications, and
no clear answer came from it.
E-EG and E-EK ES Civic VTi has 160ps @ 7600rpm, JDM Civic SiR has 170ps @
7800rpm. Interestingly the Compression Ratio for JDM is 10.4:1, apparently
it's the same for ES, but the USA version has CR 10.2:1
I've personally had a JDM 1990 E-EF9 Civic SiR Dynoed that I was looking at
buying to check its performance, and the car came up short showing only
153ps, not the JDM specification 160ps.
My Dyno Shop only has the ES for same engined Civic 1.6i-VT which has
150ps, and according to them the 153ps is all this particular Civic would
give in its current specification.
Both JDM and ES B16A1 engines have CR 10.2:1. I showed them the JDM
specifications, and they were a little confused as to where the other 8ps
was.
The car dealer said it was because the JDM have 99 octane fuel, but my Dyno
Shop says that 99 octane over 96 octane as sold here in New Zealand, will
not give you 8ps.
I've driven a good number of these SiR's and this particular SiR's engine
did not drive very well, very poor performance until 5500rpm compared to my
SOHC 123ps Civic GTi, which is not how it should be.
This was confirmed on the Dyno with the power curve looking like someone
had taken a huge bite taken out of the middle.
I declined on buying it, and had intended to buy an E-EG or E-EK JDM Civic
SiR but as I'm looking to move to Singapore/Hong Kong, these plans have
been shelved. Instead I'll be looking out for the Civic Type R and
Nissan Pulsar VS-R when I arrive there.
I hope this helps answer some of your questions, though I feel I might have
wandered a little with my SiR experience. Feel free to contact me with any
questions/comments you may have, or forward me anything that clears up the
differences between ES and JDM."
From : Moses Hernandez (mail@removed.com)
"I work doing heads at a machine shop maybe i can explain how seating
helps. BTW JG recommends 5 angle's on the intake and 3 on the exhaust
side. Well anyways. If you give your heads a small 45 degree angle
(which is where the valve sits) and make the 30 bigger and the 60 move
it up alot higher (in other words make the valve sit higher on the
seat), then yes you can actually get more air comming into the cylinder.
I'd have to actually show you but i think you can understand it."
John Kim wrote:
"To quote an authority on this topic, I talked to Lingenfelter
Performance Engineering.
me : "To settle an argument, what is the primary reason people get
those multi-angle grinds on the valves?"
lpe : "To improve breathing."
me : "Can I quote you on that?"
lpe : "Better, you can quote the dyno."
Call them up and ask for Chris (or even John Lingenfelter himself)
and they'all agree about the valve job theory.
Lingenfelter's phone number: (219)724-2552"
Usually aggressive camshafts cannot move enough air at lower rpm's in order
to pacify the engine breathing through the camshaft-motivated valves.
Be sure to inspect your camshaft and ignition timing and make sure it's dead on.
You can try to use adjustable cam sprockets to pacify the idle @ some
expense of power. Also, an enlarged throttle body helps the idle out.
From: mail@removed.com
"From what I can sense reading your comments, you are talking about Normally
aspirated engines. A fully built (bottom and top) race B18b engine will
produce around 195-205 at the flywheel. Mugen used such engines (B18A) in
their Integra Race cars compaigned in the Group A series back in 1990-1991.
A built B18b street engine will put out around 185 hp at the flywheel.
Most built street B18b engine have cams, ported head, cam gears, TB, ECU,
and valve springs along with the usual airflow enhancements.
For Comparison:
A fully built race B18C will produce 235 ps. This is a great engine, as
Honda demonstrated by increasing its power to 200ps from 180 ps, while
maintaing factory reliability and quality (type-R) . Most built street B18Cs
will put out at max about 190hp at the flywheel. Most street built B18C are
set up with the usuall boltons, a TB, Cam gears, ported head.
The race prepped B18C has approximately 233 hp, runs 13:1 compression, idles
at 2500RPM, only uses the high lobe of the cam, and makes its power at higher
RPMs. There are some firms that have been able to extract 250hp from the
B18C, but those engines require a minor rebuild at 300 miles and a major
rebuild at 600 miles. In other words they are pure race engines.
It is a matter of preferance and budget. Both the VTEC and non-vtec are
great engines. They have different characteristics and powerbands.
It is also a myth ( and B.S.) that VTECs dont respond to modifications. This
is a rumor started by people who tried to apply techniques developed for
regular engines to VTEC engines. VTEC will respond to the right kind of
modifications. People who dont feel a difference on their B18Cs with DC
headers should note that the DC header was designed for the non-vtec engines
that produced 130hp, not 170 as in the GS-R.
The people who tried to port thier heads and lost power should note that DPR
has found the proper porting technique. Also Honda and Mugen are able to
extract 12hp with head work on the B18C.
I think they are both great engines with different characteristics."
From: "Louis DeVirgilio" (mail@removed.com)
"Both motors are about the same size, about the same valve and ports,
same car, I would same they have about the same HP potential. B18b
is slightly bigger, GSR has slightly better breathing, slightly less
mass or the rods, pistons, crank, and slightly less friction on the
bearings. VTEC goes not contribute to ultimate top end HP, it
provides two cam profiles for flexibility but the same HP can be
generated from a none VTEC motor of identical configuration (no low
speed vtec lobe). If we are going to limit our built motors to no
bottom end work (which is realistic) because of expense, here is what
I think can be achieved:
B18B
ported head, slight larger valves, TB, header, exhaust, air intake,
milled head for 9.5+ CR, slightly larger cams (you still want it to
idle right), cam gears (because of the milled head), ECU with a 8000
RPM limit. You can get 170-180 HP at the crank @ 7200 RPM
15.6 to 15.2 1/4 on street tires in an Integra.
B18C
ported head, stock size Type R intake and Stainless steel exhaust
valves, TB, 4 to1 header, exhaust, air intake, Type R cams, (VTEC
will idle no matter how big the cams), ECU with a 8600+ RPM limit.
You can get 195-205 HP at the crank @ 8200 RPM
15.0 to 14.6 1/4 on street tires in an Integra.
Type R
200 HP @ 8000, slight weight/gearing advantage
15.0 to 14.6 1/4 on street tires
Both motors will have about the same torque of 130 to 135 foot lbs,
the b18b will have its peak 1000 RPM lower than the b18c. The b18b
with hi-comp pistons and huge cams should be able to put out
the 195-205 HP numbers, and move its torque up 1000 RPM, but these
cams would not be able to idle below 1200 or so.
What is HP? It is torque X RPM. Same size motor with Same CR and
about the same VE you'll get about the same torque. I won't go into
stroke vs bore and rod length ratios. The above is should be true
for the comparison (within reason). The B18B is bigger -vs- B18C has
more CR, and less friction/ internal mass.
What can the stock bottom ends take?
NOS or Turbo
The B18C bottom end is WEAKER than the B18A bottom end!
I have seen so many post to the contrary. I have both rods right
here at my desk. The B18C rod is 540 grams with a very thin
beam. The B18B rod is about 580 grams with much thinker beam and rod
shoulders. The B18C has higher CR so can't take as much NOS or boost.
Say 6 PSI boost and 80 HP NOS. Sure some people get more HP
and some people tow their car home, The B18B has a way stronger
rod and lower CR so you should be able to get 7.5 PSI boost and 100
HP NOS. B18C have a knock sensor....much safer. B18C has a stronger
block, oil cooled pistons, and a bridge for the main caps. None of
these seem to be weak points in the B18B.
NA
The B18C bottom wins here. It has a higher CR, It has lighter weight
rods, way better rod bolts (at least the look better), stronger
block, oil cooled pistons. RPM limit of 8600 no problem. I think
even 8800 RPM is safe. I've had mine to 9200 RPM + many, many time
over the last 4 years.
The B18B's head can be milled for higher CR. The B18B's rods are too
heavy and bolts are too weak for high RPM. I have had my 1990 rev
up to 8000 RPM. I would not take it higher on stock rods/bolts."
From: "Michael Yepes" (mail@removed.com)
">in terms of NA power, the B18c maxed out will be faster
>than a B18b1
I agree here, but more hp, not necessarilly faster - depends on the weight
of the car its in and gearing.
-snip-
> BTW: what are these b18b or c motors that you have built putting out
> exactly @ the wheels? Are there any other changes done besides the top
> end? Hi comp pistons? Aftermarket FI? built bottom end? Bigger
> injectors?...
The engines I have personally seen built and will talk about use the
stock EFI. There are other mods I will explain.
>Both motors are about the same size, about the same valve and ports,
>same car, I would same they have about the same HP potential.
HP potential is close, but the B18C does breath better, due to
a different port design. As you stated, the vtec has lighter valvetrain
for less friction. It also has a shorter stroke for higher rpm usage.
Spin it faster and you can make more hp.
[Ed : Remember air + fuel == power, you gotta move a lot of air to make
power at higher RPM's, otherwise don't bother!]
>If we are going to limit our built motors to no
>bottom end work (which is realistic) because of expense, here is what
>I think can be achieved:
Fair enough
We built a 95 LS with a ported head (DPR), RC monster-bore T-body
(66 or 68mm), Longer valves (so that rocker geometry is correct with
reground cams), adjustable cam gears, and some big cams. The
head was milled and the engine runs at about 10:1 compression.
He also has DC headers, Thermal exhaust, iceman intake, no cat.
We tried 3 different cam sets, a medium grind from DPR that made 153 hp
at the wheels, but still idled good (all dyno numbers are from a Dynojet
dyno), a set of JG 301s that made 171 hp to the wheels, but we had to increase
fuel pressure and the idle sucked. The last set was the newer Gude cams
and they made 174 hp to the wheel, and their idle sucked too. Actually,
it sounds kinda cool, like blup, ba, bup-bup, bup, bup, bup-ba. This
particular car runs mid 13s on slicks. He ran back to back 13.55s at 98+
mph with some weight reduction. If you consider a 14% loss of power through the
drivetrain, this particular B18B makes around 202 hp at the flywheel.
(his rpm limit was removed, and peak power is about 7500 rpm.
Torque was about 138 or 139 to the wheels (161 ft lbs to the flywheel).
I'll use my 95 GS-R as an example here. I have a DPR ported head
(stage 5). Stock valves (they're reshaped), DC headers, 2.25" exhaust,
Iceman intake, 4mm overbore T-body (from RC), DPR intake cam,
adjustable cam gears, and a 9000 rpm rev limit. The head has been
milled slightly, I'm guestimating a 10.5:1 CR. I always run on 92 pump
gas, and all dyno runs and drag strip runs were on 92 octane gas.
When the cam gears were tuned, the engine made 187 hp to the wheels
on a cool day. This corrected to 185 (the dyno computer does this). My
first run at Pomona raceway on my stock clutch (which I fried attempting
a second run) was a 14.02 at 97.6 mph with M/T 22" slicks. I am sure
I will break 13s with a new clutch and lightened flywheel, and some more
practice - I had a 2.0 60ft. I sould be able to get 1.9s. This was also
done with the full interior (seats, a/c, power stearing, windows, cruise,
ctrl, and the radio ON (I forgot to turn it off). So I'm sure that with the
antennae down I can drop .03 of my ET :). Anyway if you consider about a 14%
loss of hp through the drivetrain, your looking at about 217 hp to the crank on
a cool morning. Torque is 133 to the wheels (154 to the flywheel).
This is a 100% daily driven street car. If I went all-out (which I plan to do
with my spare B18C"T"1 (still don't know what the "T" is for), I'm sure that
well over 190 hp at the wheels can be attained.
>Type R
>200 HP @ 8000, slight weight/gearing advantage
>15.0 to 14.6 1/4 on street tires
Since its based on the GSR, see above.
>Both motors will have about the same torque of 130 to 135 foot lbs,
>the b18b will have its peak 1000 RPM lower than the b18c.
You're right. Also, the B18B made more HP and more torque than
the C from about 2500-6000 rpm. The B18C only made more hp
than the B18B above 6000 rpm. Since drag racing is from ~6000-
8500+ rpm in a B18C, a GSR motor will be faster in a drag race.
(if in identical cars with the same weight, traction, etc.)
In other forms of racing where more of the rpms are used, the B18C will
have much less of an advantage over the B18B. Unless they are stock.
>The b18b
>with hi-comp pistons and huge cams should be able to put out
>the 195-205 HP numbers, and move its torque up 1000 RPM, but these
>cams would not be able to idle below 1200 or so.
But no one has done it yet, or at least done it correctly so that those
numbers are achieved.
[Ed : is it really worth the trouble/$$? Why not just start with a B18C in
the first place? :) ]
>What can the stock bottom ends take?
>NOS or Turbo
>The B18C bottom end is WEAKER than the B18A bottom end!
>I have seen so many post to the contrary. I have both rods right
>here at my desk. The B18C rod is 540 grams with a very thin
>beam. The B18B rod is about 580 grams with much thinker beam and rod
>shoulders.
I dissagree only because the engineer I dealt with knew these
engines extremely well. The B18C's rods are made of a different
alloy than the B18B's. The C's rods are stronger because of this
material and the method in which they are made. (I don't remember
the exact terminology, some of the stuff he was talking about was
over my head.) Gary Kubo used stock vtec rods that were shot peened
in his turbo/nitrous vtec civic that made 371 hp to the wheels. (This
engine may have been a B16a though, but the rods are still the same
as a B18C, but slightly thinner!
>The B18C has higher CR so can't take as much NOS or boost.
>Say 6 PSI boost and 80 HP NOS. Sure somepeople get more HP
>and some people tow their car home, The B18B has a way stronger
>rod and lower CR so you should be able to get 7.5 PSI boost and 100
>HP NOS. B18C have a knock sensor....much safer. B18C has a stronger
>block, oil cooled pistons, and a bridge for the main caps. None of
>these seem to be weak points in the B18B.
High CR bad for turbo/NOS. Although GS-Rs with 9.0:1 pistons run
10-14psi turbo setup on the street. But stock, a B18B, is better suited
for a turbo since more boost can be run and the $$$ saved over the
GS-R.
>NA
>The B18C bottom wins here. It has a higher CR, It has lighter weight
>rods, way better rod bolts (at least the look better), stronger
>block, oil cooled pistons. RPM limit of 8600 no problem. I think
>even 8800 RPM is safe. I've had mine to 9200 RPM + many, many time
>over the last 4 years.
B18C is the way to go for NA hands down. (or maybe a B16a at 9500
rpm, but thats a different story). I've seen a few civics powered by
B18Cs and B16As hit 13.1s, 13.2s, and even high 12s (Ramanan).
Sheng's GSR hit 13.2x at 104mph last spring at Bakersfield, but his
car is exremely light for an integra (totally gutted). Actually, I think
my car makes more hp than his, but his is so light.
>The B18B's head can be milled for higher CR. The B18B's rods are too
>heavy and bolts are too weak for high RPM. I have had my 1990 rev
>up to 8000 RPM. I would not take it higher on stock rods/bolts.
My friend does not take his LS past 8200 when drag racing. I've
seen 9000 a few times on my GSR. I usually take 1st gear to 9K
(because it gets there so damn fast) and then about 8500 for 2nd,
3rd gears. When I road race, I don't go past 8300 or so."
4.0 Intake System
For every 11 degrees (F) drop in temperature, expect a 1 horsepower gain.
Expect performance to be worse if you're sucking in hot underhood
temperatures. Colder air makes the motor run cooler as well as being more
dense (remember Chemistry? PV = nRT?)
From : Jerome Soh (mail@removed.com)
"I believe the correct numbers are as follows:
For every 10 F drop in temperature, expect a 1% (PERCENT, not
horsepower) increase in power.
For every 10 C drop in temp, expect a 3% gain."
Editor : Does anyone absolutely sure which is it?
10 or 11 degrees?
A "ram air" setup is an intake method where the force of the car travelling
through the air is used to literally ram air into the intake (a hood scoop
is usually a good indication)
From: Jerome Soh (mail@removed.com)
"A "ram air" setup is an intake setup where the input end of the intake
system is placed facing towards the front of the car such that it can
take in air that is at a higher pressure than that in the engine bay
when the car is at speed. At 60 mph, a ram air setup can provide up to
1 psi of boost, and at 100 mph, 2 psi of boost. Thus, a properly setup
ram air acts like a small turbo system at high speeds (and is "free").
Keep in mind that extending the intake hose to make the ram air setup
introduces pressure losses (albeit minor) as the air now has to flow
through more pipe. Thus, keep the extension as short as possible."
There are many concerns about aftermarket performance filters working, and
which yields the biggest horsepower.
Some people swear by foam intakes (while dissenters say yes they yield more
power, but let a lot of dirt in)
Others are simply satisified by K&N or S&B filters. An oiled cotton
filter. The idea being the porous cotton allows the air in, the oil traps
the dirt. The K&N uses electrostatic charge to attract and capture dirt
and dust. The oil is positively) charged, and therefore attracts dust
and dirt, which carries a (negative) charge.
Bottom line, a performance filter is better than the restrictive air box
found on stock cars.
IMHO, if tuner cars (Saleen, etc) come from the dealerships with exposed
K&N filters, that means something about it's performance and filtering
effect.
Much like 4.3, a very heated issue. Apparently Honda motors respond very well
to cold air velocity stacked setups.
The current favorite is the Iceman Intake System. Check out
http://integra.vtec.net/iceman.html for a review.
Other intakes to check out are AEM's Cold Air intake as well as the Racing
Sports Akimoto Funnel Ram2 (filter made by K&N now, not S&B)
From: Anil Vootkur (mail@removed.com)
"The Iceman is made out of some plastic polymer and has a joint (connected
by rubber) near where the OEM airbox goes. It has a gradual increasing
diameter away from the TB so there is no need for a velocity stack. The
pipe continues from the OEM location and goes down into the passenger side
fender well, near where the stock resonator was located. A tight turn and
the filter is angled almost parallel to the ground. Dont know what size
filter but it is constructed by K&N. You can get flashy colors, and
convert the kit to a non cold air setup by connecting the filter where the
rubber joint is instead of at the extreme end of the pipe.
The AEM is made of coated aluminum to resist heat and is a 2.5-3" pipe I
believe. There are no joints on this system. It simply curves down to the
fender well, near where the stock resonator was located. A "turbo air
horn" velocity stack connects the filter to the pipe.
Both systems should give similar dyno results. I would expect no more than
6-8 hp from either. Some people swear by ICEMAN, but I prefer AEM's design
myself. Both cost around $210...but can probably be had for cheaper.
ICEMAN is nice because of its versatility (dry land setup or wet land
setup). The AEM system is a full time dry land setup."
You may also want to DIY and make your own effective intake kit with dryer
hose for your cold air.
Check out :
http://integra.vtec.net/diyintake.html and
http://integra.vtec.net/intake.html
Be careful with cold air systems as they may allow the engine to suck in water
(in wetter areas) Excessive water in the engine will damage the engine
seriously.
The throttle body is the device which regulates air into the engine via the
gas pedal. By enlarging it's size you can allow more air to flow through
(hence more power) Be careful removing too much material.
Currently JG Engine Dynamics, RC Engineering, Bullfrog GUDE, and AEM perform
the boring. Expect a gas mileage decrease too. A bigger throttle body helps
aggressive cams idle better. In fact some cams require a bored throttle body.
Throttle bodies allow more air flow across the board, so you should
see an increase in power across the RPM board of about 3-5hp.
Throttle bodies should lean out air/fuel ratio so you shouldn't
have a smog problem.
Radiator fluid is passed through the throttle body to keep it from freezing
shut. This also heats the air going into the motor. By removing the lines
from the throttle body and connecting them together, you avoid the air
heating up. So expect more power. Don't do this if it snows in your town.
From Ali J. (mail@removed.com) :
Another easy modification to cool things off is locating the coolant pipes
that lead to the throttle body, and using a "Straight T" attach them.
This will bypass the throttle body and keep it cool. After all these
modifications, I used an air temperature meter to compare this system and
my AEM cold air system. The AEM system runs 72-152 degrees, while my system
runs a cool 58-110 degrees.
WARNING! You may not want to do this trick since it may cause your
car's warming up idle to fluctuate! Somehow you need to warm up
the fast idle thermo valve (which mounts on the underside of the TB and the
hoses connect to). Once someone figures out how to keep this happy,
it should be a streetable modification.
From: Matt (mail@removed.com)
"Thanks to everyone that tried to help me out with my JG Throttle
Body problems... I have solved it!
When I installed the throttle body, I disconnected the battery
as to reset the ECU. For some reason it didn't reset I guess.
I went out and purchased a Chiltons manual and tried what it
said to disconnect the "BACKUP" fuse "HAZARD,
BACKUP) <-for Canadian, in the underhood relay box.
I then restarted the car, and it idled great! I adjusted the
idle screw back UP! The opposite of what I thought.
I don't know why the first ECU reset didn't do it, but the
second time around solved it."
Dan Ponze (mail@removed.com)
"I had the same problem when I did my TB. I couldn't figure it
out for months. It was fluctuating, and surging. Finally, DPR suggested
this and it worked. The throttle position sensor is behind the TB and
secured by two allen head screws. Simply loosen them, and rotate the
sensor up or down until idle is smooth. Tighten the screws and you're
done. My idle is now perfect and it only took 3 months to figure out and 5
minutes to do."
The throttle body mounts to the intake manifold. Honda also places a gasket
to seal these two parts together. By enlarging the throttle body opening,
the intake manifold and the gasket no longer match the throttle body's
opening. Imagine trying to flow air through a 5 inch opening then suddenly
run into a 4 inch section. This situation may hamper air velocity more
than the added value of allowing more air through the throttle body itself.
Be sure to get your intake manifold match ported.
This is a process of pushing an abrasive mud-like compound through engine
parts where air, fuel, or exhaust flow through. The parts become very
smoothed out and to some extent enlargened. Speedline's DRAG turbo-equipped
Integra showed a ~5++hp gain across the RPM board after an extrude honed
intake manifold was added on. Probably doesn't make much of a difference on
cars that aren't supercharged or turbocharged.
The resonator is a plastic box that is mounted below and joining to the
stock air intake box. It's purpose is to silence the air entering
your engine. By removing the resonator box you open up the engine
to more cooler air. For all manufactured cold air intakes, you must
remove the resonator. A good trick to do is to remove the resonator
and put some dryer hose in it's place to further channel cooler
air into the engine. See 4.4 for more info.
As your new car breaks in, so does the throttle cable. It may develop
slack over time that actually may prohibit you throttle body
from ever seeing WOT. This is bad for power. If you have a friend
press all the way down on the gas pedal, you can then verify
the throttle cable is indeed opening the throttle body all the way.
No. If you need reasons talk to JG Engine Dynamics. If you need a solution,
swap in the Si intake manifold and computer. For that much trouble
just go hybrid. Talk to Hybrid Joe for more info on both topics.
For their propaganda, visit their web site.
From: anderson mail@removed.com
"To those who don't know, The "Tornado" is some aluminum or tin
circular doo dad wth angled fins that is placed in the air intake
tube. It's supposed to make the passing air swirl to better mix with
the fuel for more power and efficiency. They cost something
ridiculous like $70+, and here is my experience.
First of all, it was given to me, I wouldn't pay that for
something claiming 10%+ or something in power (too good to be true).
I put it in my '90 integra, just behind the K&N filter. All it did was
made a really neat sound. Next time I checked on it, it had slid all
the way to the throttle body and was sideways, so I got some tin and
extended it, plus added a fin (yep, you can make your own). I put it
back in, I think in front of the TB, and went on a long trip. I
matched my previously best milage, 600Kms by the time the gas light
comes on.??? Coincidence??? I had even wasted some gas on that trip
racing a VR6. Since then, there were no noticable gains, so I took
it out and put it in my brothers civic and he didn't notice a thing.
I think it's still there, probably sitting sideways."
From : Tamgiao H. Nguyen (mail@removed.com)
"> Does anybody knows how to clean the HKS super Power Flow air filter?
The same question was posted to the list a while ago on 06/11 by Toto
Gohan (mail@removed.com) and was answered by a few HPers. Perhaps
those who created the HP FAQ should once again help make a HP
Maintenance FAQ. (HKS PowerFlow maintenance is HP-related because the
HKS PowerFlow system itself is HP-related.)"
[Ed : I dunno, but it sounds like you're volunteering to do it!
The Best Option IMHO : Buy a Banzai replacement foam. It's washable,
reusable, and oilable. They use Uni filter oil (usually found in motorcycle
stores. So if you need more oil, get 'em from there.]
From : Jason Q Regala (mail@removed.com)
"Robocar in LA told me it was. I tried washing it in water so all the dirt
is gone. Then I sprayed a light film of WD-40 so the dust would be caught.
I had no problems after that. Anyone else have any suggestions?"
From: Young Song (mail@removed.com)
"Most foam or gauze filters are washable. First step is to check for
damage - holes, rips.. Hold'em up to the light to find rips. If they're
ok, then move on to cleaning. I think the best way to clean them is to
shake them up at first to get the bigger chunks off and then proceed to
use a hose to spray the filter from the inside out. Spraying it from
the exterior would push dirt into the interior side of the filter, an
undesirable result. Also, set up your hose to not spray water at full
blast but at a flow that will clean without breaking apart the
material. If the filter's a foam one, don't use the K&N cleaning kits
as those will dissolve foam. The cleaning kits are good for
gauze/cotton reusable filters, which usually require re-oiling after
cleaning. Foamies just need to be air dried before being reinstalled on
the intake..
For the anally retentive, cleaning out the intake pipes might not be a
bad idea since they sometimes get a thin coat of dirt. Just make sure
you dry the thing out before reinstalling. It's not so hard to do so
why not do it when you clean the filter too...
After spray"
From: RYAN B YEE (mail@removed.com)
"well you can wash it but HKS recommends replacment every 3-5 months or
3-5k kms... about 26.99"
5.0 Exhaust Systems
"Beauty is in the eye of the beholder."
Or should it be : "Loudness is in the ear of the listener"?
Some get really loud, some drone during cruising, some aren't really loud at
all. It's very subjective and it's hard to judge without sound measuring
equipment. Best thing to do is to listen to systems and note the pipe diameter
and the muffler used.
If you can hear the car coming from 10 blocks away, I'd say that's pretty
loud.
Much like the intake system, a very heated issue again. Current popular
systems are Trust, Tanabe, RS*R, DC sports, and IMP.
Good for you! First you need to find a reputable custom muffler shop. 2.25"
inch pipe is desirable for NA setups. For turbocharged think 3" piping.
Mandrel bent (smooth bends) are ideal to ensure minimal back pressure.
The muffler shop should be able to recommend a straight through muffler
(Borla -- considered the best, Ultra Flo) correctly sized for your engine
to minimize noise. And
tips are your option. Remember stainless is better for life (salt on roads?)
but much money. And to quiet down exhaust noise, a resonator is highly recommended.
Make sure you get a properly sized resonator so as to not hurt your power.
These are the pipes leading from cylinder head down to underneath the car to
the rest of the exhaust system. By replacing these restrictive pipes you can
decrease backpressure and get more power.
Currently, DC Sports is felt to make the best horsepower header. Some say
Lightspeed makes a better broad range header. 4-1 (4 pipes into 1) headers
are the best design for high revving horsepower engines, but they give up so
much bottom end power it's not practical on the street.
Thankfully most/all manufactured systems are 4-2-1 designs.
Expect an increase, but it won't be earth shattering unless you're running some
mean engine mods or a forced induction setup.
If you get caught in California, it's a pretty hefty fine. $2k? Don't play,
if you can't pay.
Maybe both! ;D Stainless steel costs a lot of money. A good coating would cost
another $100-$300. So you can see why manufacturers don't coat their stainless
headers (and some people regard the purplish color of heated stainless headers
as pretty) Stainless tends to be regarded as a longer lasting/stronger
material, while mild steel can corrode/crack and fatigure under many heat stress
cycles.
A few owners of DC headers have had problems w/ the welds cracking on the
stainless units.
Anyhow, I would recommend ceramic coated headers to keep the heat inside
the headers as much as possible. I've noticed the engine bay/hood areas
pick up a lot of ambient heat from uncoated headers. Choose wisely!
Remember, if you don't have a cold air intake : you could be picking up
heated air from your aftermarket non coated headers!
Oh BTW, use a lacquer thinner or similar solvent after installation, this
will get all the crap/oil from burning into the header finish forever.
A high flow cat will outflow a stock cat. However, I doubt any cat can truly outflow
a straight pipe in its place. ;D
So do high flow cats really clean up the exhaust but let more flow through?
An Integra with no cat @ idle shows about .220 ppm. Failure in California
is .100 ppm. Average passing is .003ppm. The same Integra with a Random
Technologies Cat put out about .120 ppm. So you're still emission wise
illegal in California. BTW, the Integra ran perfectly clean anything
above 2k RPMs.
If you've got money to burn and only want to pollute the environment
half as much for a little more power, then by all means buy a high flo
cat.
From: Zero Gravity GSR (mail@removed.com)
"I have tried all three cat options, stock, high-flow, and test pipe. Of
the three I definitely like the Random Tech Cat. best for all around
performance and drivibilty. It made a huge difference as opposed to stock
up top, and down low was not really all that affected. I am only running
the test pipe right now because I plan on NOSing soon, and it seems to
work better while on the bottle, plus I have heard of people clogging
their cats while NOSing especially while on racing fuel (even if it is
unleaded). Once I install the turbo I will be putting the high-flow Cat.
back on. The other advantage to running the Cat. in CA is that you
don't have to worry about a $3000+ fine for not having one."
Ed : I don't think it's CARB legal to replace your catalytic converter at
all unless certain conditions have been met, and then you must
use an OEM-spec one. Get solid info before buying one.
For more nitrous oxide info read http://www.primenet.com/~punchie/NOSfaq.htm
Also check out http://www.gate.net/~shonline/nos.html.
From: FuSiONSi mail@removed.com (RoN)
Subject: NOS jet sizes
Now correct me if I am wrong but I thought that a dry system only fogged
nitrous into the intake. Maybe I am wrong, well NE way here is the jet size
for a wet system, maybe it might help you
NOS FUEL
43 28 80hp
41 26 70hp
39 24 60hp
37 22 50hp
From: The Garden Weasel (mail@removed.com)
Subject: Re: HP: NOS jet sizes
jetting for a dry manifold NOS kit:
40hp 34 nitrous/44 fuel
50hp 37 nitrous/42 fuel
60hp 38 nitrous/42 fuel
70hp 41 nitrous/36 fuel
80hp* 44 nitrous/34 fuel+
90hp* 46 nitrous/34 fuel+
(*)Larger fuel pump reccomended/(+)requires a .040" shim be placed in
the co2 regulator.(this is the large apparatus between the two solenoids
the top will unscrew from it) you also may have to experiment with
leaning out the fuel jet for maximum performance. Also make sure the
line between the Stock fpr is hose clamped or that you are using the NOS
fuel pressure safety switch otherwise you might break something you
don't want to fix. later.
From : Ryan Vanderwerf (mail@removed.com)
Be careful with the dry system, the jet numbers go backwards from the
wet/direct systems. (Ie. the higher the fuel number jet the LESS it flows).
See turbo mag, May 96 issue for all the jettings to start with on all
systems. I'm putting in a single fogger 60hp shot in my prelude today,
I'll let you know what jettings we end up using.
From : Elson Cho
> Now correct me if I am wrong but I thought that a dry system only fogged
> nitrous into the intake..maybe I am wrong...well NE way here
Yea, that's right. Dry system injects nitrous into the intake. But there
is a fuel "T" that connects to the solenoid and taps into the fuel line at
the fuel pressure regulator. So when nitrous is injected, you need more
fuel to compensate for this, thus the fuel jets. More nitrous, then more
fuel. Basically, unlike the wet systems, its a single fogger with one
outlet for the nitrous and the second part of this fogger is located at
the "T" connector.
From : Ken Woods (mail@removed.com)
No. It's 13 parts air and one part fuel. The best A/F ratio for power is
about 12.7:1, 14:1 is "normal" and 15:1 will get you the best gas mileage.
If you can spray, and still run 12.7:1 in the upper RPM ranges, then your
car will make ALOT of power. If you jet it for 60HP, and then run 15:1,
you will make less power than if you jetted for 50HP and ran 13:1.
Make sense??? That's why I say to install the 34N, then watch the A:F.
1996-on Civic DX motor
Elson Cho (mail@removed.com)
"Not much. A 50hp system such as the 5122 dry manifold NOS kit would be
safe on a stock block."
B18 series motors :
The upper limit on NOS capability seems to be around 80-120hp
shot (direct port of course) You will need to add the appropriate
fuel of course!
Elson Cho (mail@removed.com)
"I've dropped about 1 full sec in the 1/4 with a 50hp dry system.
It really depends on the type of car."
Weyland Jung has performed in the mid to high 13 second range
using a direct port setup on his (90-91) Integra GS. Off the giggle
gas it's reported to run solid 15s.
Elson Cho (mail@removed.com)
"In Seattle, Nitrous oxide goes for about $3.50/lb. 15 lbs is the weight of
the bottle empty. There is 10 lbs of nitrous oxide in the bottle. So a
full bottle weighs 25lbs, 10 lbs being the gas itself."
From : NETTORUN mail@removed.com
"I had a backfire out of my filter once []. I was told by NOS that there was
probably an air bubble in the lines. You can sometimes trap air when you are
removing and installing the bottle. If you add a PURGE VALVE to your kit this
will eliminate the chance of another inicident. I [] squeezed all night. I later had
my mechanic check the car and he said it was o.k."
From: "E. Cho" (mail@removed.com)
"I was wondering if anyone out there can help me out. I have a 90 Accord
running a NOS dry kit. Well today I was doing some test runs and the car
didn't feel too good on nitrous. Bad smell too when on the bottle. I was
running a 80shot. I know, I know, too much for a dry kit...but with an
inline fuel pump and A/F gauge reading rich I thought it would be ok.
So I checked the plugs...damn, looks like detonation. Then I checked
compression. Cylinders one and four are low. Two and Three are fine. I
know that the dry kit has bad distribution of nitrous in to each cylinder,
especially #1, but why #4 also?"
From: S*M*A*S*H*E*D (mail@removed.com)
"For those of you who remember that i destroyed my engine cuz of too large
of a jet with my dry manifold kit, i got my car back a few weeks ago with
a bone stock 1.8 non-vtec motor. well, the speed bug has re-bit my ass
once again.. i called NOS tech and they said the reason i burnt my motor
was cuz i was spraying way too close to the intake manifold. and the fact
i was jetting close to 100hp didnt help either! but the tech guy says to
me, "if you wouldve tapped your intake pipe further from the TB, you
wouldve been fine..." so i asked, "how far?" and he told me that the
ideal placement for the nozzle is as far as you can get it from the TB!
wait a sec, from the direction and instructions, and from what ppl have
been telling me, its good to keep your nozzle tapped in FRONT of the
butterfly in the TB. the tech guy says that in his personal
installations on hondas, he would snap the nozzle in half so that the jet
would shoot straigh, and tap the end of of the k&n element... he said the
reasoning behind this was so theat the nitrous would have ample time to
mix with the oxygen and have a more dispersed shot rather than pure
nitrous hitting the back of the intake manifold and just getting it into
2 cylinders instead of all 4... makes sense right?
he also said that the directions are made to look like the recommended
tap was in the TB cuz they couldnt show the whole intake tract..."
7.0 Supercharging
Although it's not really a performance question, I'd thought I'd put a customer
experience in just to see the hassle you get when using one of these things.
Let alone the installation and use. ;D
From: Young Song (mail@removed.com)
"Okay..
I've gone up to bat for Jackson Racing and their supercharger.. I stuck
up for them and advocated their blower even though I don't have one... I
even put in an order around end-Feb early-March...
but dang it, after over a month of calling and waiting, I keep getting
answers like "it will be ready in a week" or "call back in seven
days"... That's all I've been getting for the last month from them!
and oh no... today, I called them and after they told me the
supercharger wouldn't be ready yet, I did the unthinkable.. I criticized
them for being slow in delivering the product I ordered... "So.. why is
this taking so long? I'm getting really impatient here.."
and what do they do? They act like total assholes on the phone!
"You know, I'd be more than happy to cancel the order if that's what you
want.."
great service guys. As a matter of fact, yes, if that is the kind of
common courtesy you give to paying customers, then yes, I will cancel
that order.
Shoot. Maybe Ken Woods was right after all..."
From: Ozzie (mail@removed.com)
"I read your mail message this morning and contacted Larry at ENDYN who
called Oscar Jackson at Jackson Racing. He stated that he had been in
the orient and had just returned and that the reason for the delay is as
follows:
The supercharger has an accessory drive system for the alternator which
must be relocated to install the kit. Previously the idler pulleys on
this assembly and the bolts associated with it were SAE. They ran out
of units and decided to redesign the unit using metric nuts and bolts -
a good idea. And while they were at it they decided to modify the
design so that you could install a variety of different sized pulleys on
the supercharger to alter the boost levels - another good idea. There
were some production problems (CNC milling machine broke down) as well,
but Oscar assured us that kits would be available next week.
Oscar also looked up your order and said that you had cancelled it
yesterday. During this conversation it was implied that you would be
worth your time to call back and discuss your order after May 1st.
Good luck on whatever your decision is,
Ozzie"
[Ed : Boy don't you love it when the company sells the product
to the public and uses the 1st wave of buyers for R&D?? To be
fair, a lot of tuners are guilty of this]
From : mail@removed.com (Peter Lam)
"I had the JR blower installed in my 92 Civic two weeks ago. Up here in
Canada, that's about $4000 with labor, taxes, etc. so it's a pricey deal.
As to whether or not it's worth the dough, IMO it's a definite YES. The
car pulls very strongly throughout the powerband in 2nd, 3rd, and 4th
gears (1st gear is so-so, but I guess that's due to the stock gearing). I
do not have exact numbers, since the car has not been dynoed. In
addition, I don't know how it compares to the Greddy turbo kit, which is
your most likely alternative in this price range. You should be aware
that it is quite noisy, esp. noticable at idle (noise and vibration).
Once up to speed, the noise is less noticable. When you floor it, you can
hear a great howl from the blower -- sounds great!
The only gripe I have is that the package seems to have aggravated a
rough idle problem (I am due for a proper tuneup anyways). Otherwise the
145K km engine is running fine. The engine is stock except for a DC SS
header, Trust BL catback exhaust and Airinx intake (which I will replace
with the factory airbox, sans resonator). The stock clutch is beginning
to slip, so expect to eventually replace that with a stronger one (any
recommendations?)."
From : Jeremy Seah (mail@removed.com)
"I had the JR blower installed in my Civic (D16Z) for almost a year. The
1st time I installed it, my engine was heavily modified; head/valve-works,
ECU upgrade, cam, ignition (HKS twin power & GCC) etc. Sad to say, I
blew-up my engine within 2 months!
There was a big hole on piston #3 and the reason was probably due to a lean mixture
(& not to mention my inexperience!). The weather was pretty hot here (avg. low 90's)
but I thought using 98 octane gas was sufficient for 6 psi boost. I was also "
playing" with my ignition timing (with the GCC) at different rpm so that could be the
problem too!
Spent a bomb rebuilding my engine with another stock head/block,
JE low compression pistons (8.5:1), stronger rods, had to replace my
crankshaft as well, back to stock ECU & cam, and upgraded injectors.
Things are great now and so far after more than 10,000 km, everything's
fine. The question is: I've bought the 8.5 psi upgrade kit (comes with
pulley and replacement fuel pump) and I'm wondering if my engine can
take that kind of boost?! Anyone out there ever tried that kit yet?
And is it difficult to replace the fuel pump and where can I get a good
service manual? Thanks in advance."
From: Supra97321 mail@removed.com
JR says to use it on a stock motor because allot of people have been using
them on motors with a cam and an ECU upgrade. The ECU upgrades advance the
timing which you dont want, and some cams change the manifold vaccum compared
to stock. Thats why people have been ruining their engines, and thats why JR
recommends a stock engine.
James
P.S. someone posted a message from JR. JR made a comment about the DC
sports civic which was featured in Motor Trend. JR said that with header and
exhaust, the civic was slower than stock. If I recall, the civic had 17 inch
wheels on it. Put 17 inch wheels on a JR supercharged civic and see how it
hurts performance....then compare it to stock diameter wheels.
Greddy offers a pretty good basic picture of how a turbocharged engine works :
http://www.greddy.com/turbo.html
Remember, Honda engines are normally aspirated engines. They tend to run
a more aggressive compression ratio than an OEM turbocharged engine.
So you're limited to how much boost you can spool.
Justin offers some engine and boost advice :
"It is not recommended to run over 7 psi of boost on stock pistons. Stock
Integra rods can take up to 10 psi of boost on a daily driver GSR and the
occasional 12-14 psi. Any more boost on a day to day basis or the occasion
14 psi at the track, you better get better rods.
The safest turbo applications generally follow these rules:
5 psi : intercooler
7 psi : pistons
10 psi : DFI or something to look after your fuel and timing
12 psi : rods
DFI is a little extreme, but then again, how often
do we want to take apart our motor."
Daniel H. Spain (mail@removed.com) :
"Just called DRAG, and this is the information they gave me over the phone
for a '92-'93 VTEC GSR:
Exhaust manifold [Ed : Last I saw, was welded, stainless optional]
Garrett T4/T3 hybrid turbo
Remote wastegate [Ed : Last I saw, was HKS]
Exhaust downpipe
Air-to air intercooler
Chrome intake pipes
HKS sequential blowoff valve
High-pressure / high-volume fuel pump
Boost dependent fuel pressure regulator
Boost gauge
Braided steel oil lines
Water lines for turbo
MAP sensor bypass
All silicone hoses and clamps
Works w/ABS and A/C
10 psi, 300 flywheel hp
$3995"
From: Frank/G.speed (mail@removed.com)
"Normally aspirated cams, especially high RPM oriented such as DOHC
VTEC's have longer duration and overlap. when you use force induction,
you don't need all this duration and overlap... a properly engineering
VTEC cam for turbo applications would offer KILLER torque curve and
power."
Overlap is used as a way of exiting exhaust gases to actually suck in
the intake charge. This is partly what VTEC does, kind of a wanna be
turbocharger. So imagine if you have a lot of overlap on a turbo.
Under boost, the compressed air would blow right through the cylinder.
You wouldn't get all that quality compressed air to stay in the cylinder!
This is why B18A/B motors respond so well to turbocharging with
cam sprockets and JG Engine Dynamics #1001 camshafts. The camshafts
are used to maintain peak cylinder pressure and sprockets dial it all in.
The turbocharger can cram all of it's boost into the cylinder.
So far no one has good turbo VTEC cams. It is questionable whether
or not sprockets can dial enough overlap out to use 100% of the turbocharger's
output.
VTEC motors do respond well to turbocharging, but there's still a lot of room
for improvement.
From: Weyland Jung (mail@removed.com)
Some 95 or so Civic had the Greddy kit on the dyno over at Dynamic Autosports. Made
like 145 +- 3HP.
A turbo's boost is typically regulated by a wastegate. A wastegate
reroutes some exhaust flow around the turbo, thereby not allowing
the turbo to spin any faster. Some wastegates can be adjusted,
others cannot. Whatever the case, the wastegate's signal to open comes
from the compressor side of the turbo itself. This air pressure signal is
linear and gets stronger as boost increases. Performance wise, this kind
of regulation is bad because the wastegate always stays open under
boost. Only electronic boost controllers are able to keep the wastegate
shut as long as possible (thereby reaching max boost faster).
A manual boost controller either bleeds off or restricts the air pressure
signal going to the wastegate. In effect, the wastegate is fooled into
staying shut longer (thus allowing more exhaust to spin the turbo,
thus making more boost). MBCs aren't very precise but they're really
cheap and do work. They are prone to boost spiking because they aren't very
complicated devies. Normally as boost builds, the wastegate
creeps open. However w/ a MBC in the middle, when the pressure signal does
indeed become strong enough to open the wastegate, the MBC doesn't allow
the wastegate to open completely. Call it wastegate delay if you will.
A resulting boost spike happens (as the turbo happily spins unregulated).
It doesn't last long (by human standards), but hey funny things can
happen when you don't have enough fuel for the boost.
From: Joshua So (mail@removed.com)
"Like I said, manual boost controller tend not to be accurate since they
do not account for weather, temperature, barometer pressure etc. etc.. You
really do get what you pay for and for the DSM guys who keep telling me
that the 10-11 sec DSM cars are using manual boost controllers, good for you...
but you do not have experience with turbo hondas... all I gotta say is that
the damn deltagates and the TVVC's or the VBC's don't work that well. well
good luck..."
Electronic controllers differ in that they usually have a small microprocessor
using an expensive air pressure solenoid. With such sophisticated technology,
they can regulate the wastegate more precisely. The wastegate stays shut long
enough, and the EBC can effectively open/close the wastegate. EBCs can
also precisely maintain a boost level (so your motor never does exceed that
fine line of running great and a blown up motor) They also handle
environmental changes quite well.
The HKS EVC III/IV is considered to be the best damn unit. However,
A'PEXi's AVC-R makes a strong bid to upset the EVC's title.
There are many reports of problems with Greddy's Profec.
Interestingly enough, they've released a Profec B w/o fuzzy logic.
A blow off valve mechanically performs similarly to a wastegate (a pressure
signal causes it to open. Whereas a wastegate reroutes exhaust around the turbo,
a BOV reroutes compressed air into the atmosphere or back into the intake
side of the turbo). A BOV vents compressed air during upshifts (when the
throttle plate slams shut) If the BOV wasn't there, the compressed air has
no where to go but back into the turbo (bad bad bad). People usually associate
turbocharged cars with BOVs (cool sound!)
A BOV compares two pressure readings (one after the throttle plate, and
one before) If the pressure pre-throttle plate is greater than the post
throttle plate pressure, than the BOV opens and vents the pre-throttle
plate air. So a BOV performs three things 1) Prolongs turbo life
2) Increases turbo response (when vented to atmosphere, sometimes
venting back into the intake hurts response), and 3) Sounds cool.
You need it adjustable because at part throttle under boost, the
pre-throttle pressure may be greater. So you need some degree of
flexibility so as to not have the BOV open under part throttle
while on boost.
When exhaust gases pass through the turbocharger, they become swirled.
This swirling motion needs to be broken up as soon as possible
(18-24 inches post turbo). One way to do this is to use a larger pipe
post turbo, then gradually taper it down to a more reasonable size.
This is probably the reason why turbocharged cars get larger downpipes.
Actual exhaust pipe diameter will still depend on the application.
And to further quote Hugh MacInnes, "Even on an all-out racing engine it may not
be desireable to use as large an exhaust pipe as possible."
For 4 cylinders planning greater than 15 psi, I've been told 3" pipe
is a must.
In Hugh MacInnes book, he states :
"Many people think this exhaust-gas energy is not free because the
turbine wheel causes back pressure on the engine exhaust
system. This is true to a certain extent, but when the
exhaust valve first opens, the flow through it is critical.
Critical flow occurs when the cylinder pressure is more than
twice the exhaust manifold pressure. As long as this condition
exists, back pressure will not affect flow.
Ken Woods :
"Again, the most important thing is not the amount of boost, but rather the
VOLUME of air that the turbo produces. 100PSI out of a really small turbo
will produce the same amount (volume) of air that a turbo off a passenger
bus will push at 2PSI. This is why poeple say the stock bottom end can't
handle 7psi from a t3/t4."
CFM stands for Cubic Feet / Minute (I think!)
Anyhow, PSI and CFM are kinda like voltage and current.
So just because you have a lot of PSI doesn't mean
you have a lot of air. PSI and CFM describe characteristics of
the air charge, but do not dictate alone how much air there
really is.
Remember, it's the amount of AIR that makes horsepower.
You really need to think of it as :
Mass (kg) = Density (kg/m^3) * Volume (m^3)
(courtesy of Turbo September 1995)
So what happens if you have more boost? Well if the temperature
change of the compressed air increases less than the amount
of additional air the increase pressure induces, than you will make
more power. This is why good intercooling is really important.
It's worthless to boost @ 3psi, if the air charge gets so hot
very little mass of air gets into the intake manifold.
Remember PV=nRT!
CFM is important as you can tell from the Mass formula above, but it fails
to take into account just how dense the volume of the air itself is.
Again, you see why good intercooling is a must. Because even with a high
CFM, w/o good air charge density you will not make much power.
A properly chosen turbocharger will amplify the engine's power output.
So imagine, if you have a small displacement, high-revving 4 cylinder
engine that makes reasonable power only at 3k RPMs and above. When do you think
a properly chosen turbocharger will make more power on this motor?
You got it! At 3k RPMs and above.
Like I said, if you want low RPM power... either adjust the cam sprockets
or get a bigger engine (a different car)
Remember your ideal gas rule (PV = nRT). As pressure rises so will density, all else
being equal. However, as pressure rises so does the temperature. Hence intercooling
becomes critical. Using (for example) an air-air intercooler isn't free.
An intercooler core does present a pressure drop (aka restriction) in the air
charge. So remember when intercooling, the restriction you impose must be less
than the positive effect of cooling air. Choose your intercooler core wisely.
Remember the spark plug gap allows only a certain amount of energy to jump.
More energy won't jump across unless you also widen the spark
plug gap. The gap distance determines the voltage requirements
for a spark. There's a reason why OEM plug wires are very resistive,
you don't need a huge amount of current to fire the plug, you need
a great deal of voltage (V = IR, typical plug wires are in k Ohms,
voltage is really high, current is really low)
The voltage (V) is constant in your ignition system due to the physical properties
of your ignition coil. Keep this in mind when you read the following sections.
Recall that Current = Voltage / Resistance (I=V/R), as resistance
goes down, current goes up. For you math inclined types :
The limit of I as R->0 = infinity.
The least resistive plug wires will transmit more of the available
current to the plug electrode (ensuring that a consistent good spark
will happen).
If the plug wires are prohibiting full power transfer of your ignition
system in turn causing a weak spark for the combustion process, then
changing them out will yield more power. Otherwise plug wires alone
cannot give you more hp.
Nology manufactures wires with capacitors inline. Theoretically they lower
the discharge time thereby increasing electrical power. Do recall
the above information before purchasing Nology wires.
From: Jake McClean (mail@removed.com)
"I own a 95 GST which I use as a daily driver, and which has signifigant
performance modifications. I currently use magnecor 8.5mm wires.
Regardless of the mods, and this includes the spark plug wires, I can
still get 30mpg under "average" or highway driving. Wires will ONLY
increase performance or mpg when you are replacing old beat-up wires which
were hurting your car's performance/mpg in the first place."
Stick with the OEM NGK plugs. If you're running forced induction or
nitrous oxide you may want to consider switching to a different plug.
You may elect to run a colder plug (see owner's manual for part numbers)
if you're modified since your car will be running a bit hotter.
Since the motor is running hotter, your plugs will be running hotter.
A hot plug may cause the air/fuel mixture to auto-ignite (detonation)
Anyone wanna submit their favorites for these respective setups?
From: Zero Gravity GSR (mail@removed.com)
I run the BCRP7ES11s in my GSR when I am on the bottle, and yes they will
be much better suited for turbo applications as opposed to the ZFR6F11s I
normally run. There is 2 reasons for this. The first is that the BCR is
a colder plug (7 as compared to 6, the higher the number the colder the
plug) which means it is designed for higher heat engines. Second it uses
a non-projected electrode as opposed to the ZFRs, which means a shorter
heat path. Don't forget to gap down the plugs to like 30-35 also.
These terms refer to the operating temperature of the plug. The ceramic
portion of the plug is longer allowing less heat transfer from the plug
to the cylinder head (increasing the plug's operating temperature)
In other words : a longer ceramic makes a longer path, a longer path
means more resistance to heat flow, more resistance to heat flow means
less heat loss, less heat loss means higher temperatures.
In this case it's a hotter plug. A colder plug works the opposite way.
For heavily modified cars, you always want to run a colder plug in order to
avoid detonation from extreme operating temperature (see glow plugs in
diesel engines. Explanation : Glow plugs in diesel engines are not actually
spark plugs. They are merely heat coils that auto-ignite the air/fuel
mixture. No spark. So when running heavy duty modified engines,
check your exhaust gas temperature and then select your plug
heat range accordingly.
The more air you pack into a cylinder the more difficult it is for a spark to
jump across the plug gap. An ignition upgrade is a must for forced induction
setups as well as big nitrous oxide shots. This is to ensure that your
(OEM) coil is quickly and electrically capable of consistent high voltage
outputs with a good chunk of current.
From my understanding, engine ECU's advance the timing to the max spec allowed
at higher RPM's. So expect advanced timing to only help at lower to mid
range RPMs. Advanced timing tends to make throttle response crisper
and bumps up the power a bit down low (since you're igniting the air/fuel
mixture sooner)
However if you advance the timing too much, you may get detonation
at lower rpm's. What happens is the air/fuel ignites, but the engine
speed is way too low. These two opposing forces meet and your engine
starts making lovely knocking sounds.
So be careful when advancing your timing, and listen at lower RPMs for
detonation.
For detailed instructions check out http://integra.vtec.net/timing.html
This is one of those every little bit helps modifications. Don't expect
a huge increase, but it does help a little. I believe Ken Woods
mentioned it was probably good for a .5% increase in hp. It originates
from those hardcore drag racing machines which translates into a bigger
chunk of horsepower for their motors.
Ideally the plug should be facing the the intake valves. What that means
is the open side of the plug (opposite of the electrode prong) faces
the intake valves. This promotes a much better air+fuel burn.
Sometimes when tightening your plugs, they will be positioned correctly.
For those times they do not line up, you will need to purchase spark
plug indexing washers. These work by varying the thickness of the washer,
allowing more or less threading rotation; thus aligning the plug
towards the intake valves. You can buy the washers at Summit or your local
muscle car shop usually.
If you have upgraded your ignition system, you may want to consider widening
your gap by just a little bit (not too much!). Consult your ignition's
manufacturer for gap recommendations. With the added punch of an upgraded
ignition system and plug wires, you now have more electrical power to jump
the gap. But remember, this extra power can only be put to use
with a wider gap. Don't get gap happy though, because there's a point
of diminishing returns. It's probably not worth gapping larger
unless you have an upgraded coil.
By examining your spark plugs, you can determine how your engine is
runing air/fuel ratio wise. You don't want to run too rich or too lean
and your spark plugs are a good indication of what's happening.
Ken Woods (mail@removed.com) says :
"A light tan is good, and what you are aiming for.
Black means too much fuel
White means not enough fuel."
My Diamond Star Motors friend says the best way to check your air/fuel
ratio under W (ide) O (pen) T (hrottle) (pedal to the floor)
is to put in a fresh set of plugs. Make a WOT pass and immediately shut
down the car, and brake to a stop with engine off. Then check your plugs.
Although this maneuver may be highly illegal on a public road, it guarantees
a good plug reading.
Not much. Your Honda engine ECU already has a built in rev limit you
cannot exceed. If you do desire to kick in your rev limit earlier,
than an aftermarket ignition unit with a rev limiter can do so
for you. Usually, the ignition unit will offer a drop sparks
in a more gentler manner for the the motor.
This is another heated issue. Some people claim they saw horsepower gains,
others claim they do not. Some say the wires cause interference with on board
electronics. Others claim they need upgraded engine grounding wires to reap
their benefits.
From Nology's website :
"Anyone that had physics in college knows the
formula for power. In this case we're
referring to ignition spark power. Power equals
work divided by time, (P=W/t). Thus,
to get more power, you have to do the same amount
of work in less time. Manufacturers
of conventional ignition systems though, want you
to believe that it is possible to
increase the power of ignition systems by lengthening
the spark duration. This is not true!
Lengthening the spark duration actually reduces spark
power, as we already know, (P=W/t)."
Nology offers a very convincing argument why their product should make engines
produce more power.
Although I have a few problems with their electrical/engine argument, I definitively
don't know enough to dis/prove their claims.
I would like to point out that :
1) Nology has a very low resistance plug wire (too low for street use?)
2) Must use special expensive Beru plugs
3) Besides shortening the time of discharge, the wires do nothing
to bolster the energy side of the equation.
4) Interestingly enough, Nology now sells a coil to complement
their wires.
5) In car stereo circles, capacitors are used to stabilize power fluctuations
when amplifiers are driven hard. These capacitors in no way make
the amplifier generate more output wattage (power). How do Nology
capacitors differ?
From: Ken Woods (mail@removed.com)
"I've got dyno sheets that show a 2 HP loss.
(90 CRX Si, DC header, Crane Hi-6, Akimoto intake, back to back dyno runs,
on a Dynojet 248. Specs: Nology wires, Silverstone plugs--2HP loss, vs.
Magnecor wires and NGK plugs. All plugs and wires brand new)
Don't even suggest that they were not grounded.
I've run them with and without the Silverstones, and, as they say, dyno
numbers don't lie; The plugs don't help, or even make a difference."
First off, platinum is an inferior conductor compared to copper.
Platinum does however hold up against corrosion and in terms of life
far better than copper.
Usually it comes down to, do you want to replace copper plugs more often
or platinum plugs once in a while?
From: Nhut P. Tong (mail@removed.com)
"In searching for 60k tuneup parts for my 93 Prelude VTEC, I spoke
with the NGK-California technical rep. My stock plugs are
the NGK-platinums which can cost as much as $19.74/ea from a Honda
dealer to $12/ea at NOPI.
After speaking with Craig at NGK-CA, he had indicated that I am only
getting longer life out of the NGK-plat. He highly advised me to
purchase the regular NGK-resister plugs because the copper tip is a
better thermal conductor and would perform better under hard acceleration.
The life of the NGK-resistor plug is around 15K-20K miles.
The normal NGK-resistor plugs are for $2.99 at Car Quest. I'm going
to get the NGK-resistor plugs and keep a log of the gas mileage for
every fill up to see if there's any difference.
If there's no performance difference and decrease in gas mileage, I'd
stick with the less expensive resistor plugs. Otherwise, I'll have to
go back to the ultra-expensive platinums."
From: Adrian C. Black (mail@removed.com)
"It's the right decision to use the regular NGK plugs. I think Honda is
only switching over to platinum becuase they want to make their cars look
like they need less routing maintenance.... (AKA 100k miles between
tuneups! CRAP!)"
10.0 Transmission
Persistent crunching during shifts may be an indication of bad synchros
in the transmisson.
Sometimes a rough tranny needs a simple transmission fluid change. Many racers
have had success with using Redline MTL transmission fluid in their Honda
gearboxes. Redline also has a new ShockProof transmission fluid now.
Also, be sure you're always rev (RPM) matching when shifting. This is
especially so during downshifting. The 2nd --> 1st gear shift tends to be
stiff at times. A careful blip of the gas pedal in neutral to bring the tach
to about 5k RPM may be required to get the shifter to slip into 1st gear.
For those with hydraulic clutches, make sure your master cylinder's seals
are good. Otherwise your clutch may not be full engaging/disengaging
when pressing on the clutch pedal.
This phenomenon results from a clutch that repeatedly grabs hold of the
flywheel and then loses it's grip. You will notice clutch chatter the most
in 1st gear accelerating from a complete stop. The whole car will shudder
as the clutch slips and then grabs... then repeats. Eventually the clutch
should catch, and off you go.
Typically performance/racing clutches have some to severe clutch chatter.
To some extent you can avoid the chatter by riding on (aka slipping) the
clutch.
Again, another heated issue. Some recommend Centerforce, others warn that for
some FWD transmissions they use rebuilt aftermarket clutches and neglect to
use the weights.
Current clutch players are :
Bullfrog, JG Engine Dynamics, Centerforce, Clutchmasters,
RPS Turbo Clutch, and Dynamic AutoSports/Action Double D.
The idea behind this is to reduce the amount of weight your engine uses power
to move. One heavy item to shave weight off is the flywheel. For street, it's
recommended to shave off about 5 lbs. For racing, you may consider removing
even more. The negative effect of lightening your flywheel is the loss of
rotational mass inertia when accelerating from a stop. Without careful
clutch and throttle work you may stall the engine more often. Be sure to
rebalance your flywheel after lightening.
From: "Frank/G.speed" (mail@removed.com)
"My friend had his B17A flywheel (18 lbs) machined down to 12 lbs. The
materials were taken off the back of the wheel, and mostly just the
rough castings removed."
From: lowell mail@removed.com
"What you have to consider is the rotational inertia [when lightening], as
that's what's important here. My stock flywheel weighed in around 18lbs,
and I removed about 5.5-6lbs. The thing to look at though, is where did
the weight come off? Notice that there is an outer 'ring' on the back of
the flywheel and that's where a good chunk of material comes off. I machined
the back side flat, and just skimmed off all the rough casting surface on the
rest of the back so I don't think I compromised the strength in any way.
For the extra 2-3 lbs you'd save, I don't think a billet flywheel is worth
the insane price.
Just take it to a machine shop you trust, and have them cut the back of the
flywheel. Please don't drill any holes in it though. If you're really
worried, an SFI scattersheild would be the answer."
From: Kurt Bilinski (mail@removed.com)
"use a light flywheel for "spirited" driving.
Entering a corner when road racing, normally you heel-and-toe downshift.
Since you're matching transmission rpm to engine rpm, the flywheel weight
would have no braking effect. Yet if you have a big heavy flywheel, it
will want to keep spinning, which means as you slow down, your brakes have
to also slow down the flywheel. So a heavy flywheel actually _hinders_
your braking, not helping it.
Your note about braking power isn't right. When road racing, you're
supposed to brake with the brakes, not the engine. The reason for the
shifting is to get you into the proper gear for the exit of the turn, not
to slow you down. That cool sounding downshifting noise came from the
early days when cars had very small brakes and they HAD to use the engine
compression as an additional brake. If you've ever let the clutch out
without matching tranny/engine speeds, while braking hard, you know the
problem with trying to use the engine for braking, instant spin.
For road racing, there is _no_ reason to have a heavy flywheel. It makes
the car heavier, the engine cannot accelerate or decelerated as quickly,
and it makes the brakes and engine work harder.
The only positive thing it does is allow starting from a dead stop easier
(especially on a hill) and helps when drag racing."
From: Mike Roberts (mail@removed.com)
"OK, here's the story. The flywheel is used to store energy specifically
for the purpose of evening out the the rather lumpy power output from
a reciproacting engine. (Like one push every 180 degrees of crank
rotation for a four banger.)
Heavy flywheels require more energy to change their speed. Light
flywheels require less.
Advantages of the heavy flywheel: engine rotation, particularly at
low rpms is smoother. Less gentle or skilled drivers are less likely
to stall from standing start. If one is dumb enough to want to use
the engine for braking (ie downshifting to reduce speed rather than
use the brakes) the heavy flywheel is more effective because it requires
oh so much more energy to increase its angular momentum.
Advantages of the light flywheel: #1, it's lighter. there's no such
thing as good weight. More accurately, there is no such thing as good
mass. Period. #2 because it has less mass, less energy is required to
change its angular momentum (less mass, less angular momentum) thus the
motor will rev freer.
Conventional transmissions have an open differential. This allows both
wheels to spin independently. Under certain conditions,
having them spin independently isn't ideal (launching). At the same time,
having them both spinning at the same rate isn't a good solution
either (a welded differential doesn't take turns gracefully). Enter the
limited slip differential. This mechanical device replaces your open
differential and allows your wheels to spin independently. Once a certain
threshold of wheel slippage happens, the LSD causes power to be transferred
to the wheel with more traction. This allows engine power to be put down during
huge torque launches or powering through a turn.
From : Frank mail@removed.com)
"A torque sensing (TorSen) and torque biasing (Quaife) LSD, which [both] operate on
the same principle NEVER lock. When one wheel starts to slide, torque is
progressively transfered to the wheel with more traction. Under
most circumstances there [is] no wheel slippage. Under certain
conditions wheel slip will occur slightly."
"There are three popular types of LSD available for Honda's :
- Torque sensing/biasing; worm gear type - Honda Type-R, Quaife,
TorSen...
These units use complex (some say surprisingly simple) gears
to automatically adjust the torque split. It will give more
torque to the wheel with more grip. It works as we computer dudes
called "automagically". Reputed to be excellent for street use. Will
not work with one wheel in the air. [Ed. note : see warning about
LSD care]
- Clutch packs - Mugen, Cusco, CRE...
The most popular LSD used for road racing/autox applications. Clutch pack
type uses multiple friction discs to limit the slip. They do wear out but
they are rebuildable. Locking percentage depends on the builder. Will work
with one wheel in air. Response time is quick. One way LSD - locks
under acceleration only. Two way LSD - will lock under acceleration and
deceleration. 1.5 way (Cusco) - ?! I saw an article in Japanese but I
dunno how to read it. :-)
- Viscous coupling. Honda Real-Time 4WD.
Used as the center differential in the Honda Wagon. Also used by other cars
such as Porsche 959 (center diff), Nissan SR20DE (NX2000, SE-R, Infiniti G20),
Diamond Star Motors Eclipse/Talon/Laser AWD (center diff). Uses special fluids
that thickens quickly when one axle starts to spin. Response is slightly retarded
but works great as the center diff. As a FWD diff it works okay, better than
a open diff any day!
Dave from Nevada sez :
"about parking a straght axel honda: did anyone see some of the cars
at the Battle trying to turn around ? yeah, i watched one car do a
12 point turn, just to turn 90 degrees..."
From: "Louis DeVirgilio" (mail@removed.com)
"I have a CRE limited slip in my 94 GSR, when I got it (the first
GSR limited slip that Chuck made). Many LSD "experts" were telling
me "clutch type LSDs wear out" you will be lucky if you get 10,000
miles on it. Well now that I have 80,000 miles I have found no wear.
It locks up as well as always. It has just enough slip to run well
on the street. Gets a little drift in the wet, especially at WOT if
I hit any slippery white paint makrs on the road. My
car does real nice twin burn out marks with my 205 comp TAs. Lots of
wheel hop with my autocross race tires (stock springs and shocks). I
can rebuild it by changing out the clutch packs (got two extra packs
from Chuck). The whole setup was like $550 and took me about 3 hours
to put it into the trans. I think clutch type LSDs are stronger than
gear or cone types and you can rebuild them. I have seen broken
torsen gear LSDs and I have gone through many cone type. My current
440 + CID 30 year old mid 12 second family car has an clutch type
LSD and I have rebuilt it only once for about $60.00. I love thoses
Dana 60s. The other cone type LSD seem to only last 20,000 mile of
hard driving. I do change fluid often and run Redline MTL and I
drive very hard.
Gear type LSD seem weaker and you can't rebuild them, they
cost way way more. They can delivery true no slip performance.
I don't know if they can go 100,000 miles but they should. They
share the same oil as the trans and have very small gears, thus they
must be prone to wear/damage due to broken trans parts and dirty
trans fluid. Please send me one from a Type R and I'll let you
guys know. I would still take a gear type of LSD over a clutch
type for my application. To sum this up: any LSD is better than
none, get a clutch type and wait for a Type R torsen gear type to
come your way, you should be able to sell your clutch type for close
to what you paid for it, find any other performance part that you can
say that about."
From : Frank (mail@removed.com)
"Unlike clutch type LSD's, Quaife/Torsen units do not wear out.
Torque split is continously variable. About the only drawback
on Quaife/Torsen units is the higher cost when compared to
clutch pack and/or viscous LSD's. Quaife/Torsen's work very well
for FWD applicaitons, because the torque transfer is very smooth,
unlike clutch packs which tend to be very abrupt and tends to
cause undesirable steering effects... but it still comes down
to driver preference and track testing results. Most BTCC cars
use clutch packs, as serious FWD race cars often lift the inside
front tire on corners... Quaife/Torsen's do not work when a
wheel becomes unloaded in air.
As far as which one to get, that depends on how much Honda will
sell the Type-R Torsen's for. Quaife's are about $1200. If
the Honda units are cheaper, then I'd go for that.
LSD, Clutch/Flywheel, Gearbox are all interchangable between B18C/B16A."
Yes you do! Otherwise you may actually damage the LSD.
Straight from Honda, here are things you shouldn't do on a LSD equipped Honda :
1) Never mix wheel/tire combinations from side to side (DO NOT USE A SPARE TIRE
if you get a flat in front, use one from the back!)
2) Do not run the engine to on-car wheel balance your wheels&tires.
Your balancer must be self-driven and both wheels must be completely
of the ground. You may damage the LSD if you don't follow these directions!
From: "Frank/G.speed" (mail@removed.com)
"There are few companies selling the 3.5kg/7.7lbs flywheel made by
Toda Power. However, few companies also have their own. HKS has
their 11 lbs units, Trust has their own, Mugen has their own, Feel's
offers a aluminum unit and a steel (still lighter than stock) units.
Spoon's flywheel are in house too.
Most of these flywheels have a steel friction face that can be replaced
if it's worn out. The flywheels that are available here right now are
HKS, Spoon, and Clutch Masters (only 3.2kg/7.04lbs).
All flywheels for B16A, B17A, B18A/B/C should be interchagable. I'll
add some more pix later (http://www.ccnet.com/~fmlin/pbh)."
Speedometers are notoriously inaccurate at high speeds due to
tire deformation and speedo calibration etc. So no they're not
very accurate. And please don't endanger people on public
roads shooting for a top speed test of your vehicle.
Someone writes :
"My speedo was showing an honest 148 once on my gs-r suh-dan. That may actually
be possible with a downhill grade and a tailwind - but even so, it's not likely
accurate. And my Prelude is showing right at 100mph or so when I hit the traps
but the slips always say 91-92ish. So far the most I've seen on the Prelude
speedo is 130ish, though."
Pretty damn hard, but it's been done. If you can stomach it, buy a manual version
of your car.
Relatively simply, usually it involves re-welding the location
of the pivot point of the lever.
Again, a cheap method is to examine an aftermarket shifter and duplicate
it's setup but on a much cheaper level (less flash, less cash)
Jerome Soh (mail@removed.comm)
"> Can you explain the advantages of your combination of Non-vtec engine with
> GSR tranny. I believe thats what you have and remember you discussing it,
> but cannot find any of my old mail about it. Is there a better combination
> that results in lower gearing ratios?
The advantage doesn't exclusively lie in the combination of non-vtec
engine with GSR tranny. The advantage solely lies in the nice gear
ratios of the GSR tranny. In other words, you don't necesarily have to
have the non-vtec motor to take advantage of the GSR ratios. They,
along with the RS/LS (94+) and Type R tranny ratios are as follows:
RS/LS GS-R Type R
3.230 3.230 3.230
1.900 1.900 2.105
1.269 1.360 1.468
0.966 1.034 1.117
0.714 0.787 0.850
FD 4.266 4.400 4.400
Let's compare the GSR and RS tranny. The first two gears are the same.
However, 3rd and 4th gear are about 7% shorter, and 5th gear is 10%
shorter ((0.787-0.714)/.714). Let us assume that the final drive is the
same for now. In 3rd, 4th, and 5th gears, you will get noticeably
improved acceleration. It's _almost_ like having 7% more torque in 3rd
and 4th at any given time (it's not _quite_ like this, and I'll get to
that in a moment) and 10% more torque in 5th. This comes at the
sacrifice of top speed in any given gear. Now, with a 7000 rpm redline,
my top speed is about 220 km/h rev limited (it's still got lots to go...
it literally 'slams' into the limiter) with the GSR tranny. Personally,
I don't need to be up that high on the race track. On my home track, I
hit about 170 km/h down the main straight. On this particular track,
I'd ideally like to increase FD to get even better acceleration at the
expense of top speed, which brings us to the next topic: FD. FD is
exactly what it says... the final reduction through the tranny before
the driveshafts. It affects all gears. The total reductions for the
gears would be the gear ratio multiplied times FD. Thus, if your engine
is at 5000 rpm, and you are in 4th gear using a GSR tranny (total
reduction of 4.4*1.034=4.55), the driveshafts would be turning at 1100
rpm (the calculated speed using 577 mm as the nominal tire diameter
would be 120 km/h, which pretty much corresponds to my speedo). FD
increases the overall ratio for all gears without affecting gear
_spacing_. Gear spacing determines how much engine speed drops between
shifts. For 2-3,3-4, and 4-5, gear spacing is very good on the GSR
tranny. However, from 1-2 the gap is a factor of 0.59. Thus, if you
shift at 7000 rpm, you'll end up at about 4100 rpm (I always seem to end
up much higher than this when I powershift :) ). I suspect the reason
Honda did this is to give good starting power in 1st gear in a car that
doesn't have much low end torque. Anyways, looking at the Type R
ratios, one can see that the gap between 1-2 is 1.54, which is much
better. The gaps between the other gears remain the same as on the
GSR. Honda has basically just moved gears 2-5 'closer' to 1st gear. If
we ignore 1st gear, a Type R tranny is essentially a GSR tranny with a
4.7-4.8 FD.
Now back to the issue of why improving a gear by 7% isn't quite the same
as getting 7% more torque. When you do this, the top speed in that
particular gear will be reduced and thus you'll have to shift sooner.
Thus, you'll be spending the 'extra' time that you would have been in
the lower gear with the poorer ratios in a higher gear with the better
ratios. Even though the better higher gear has better ratios, it still
won't be as good as the poorer lower gear. But overall, the effect is
improved acceleration and lap times. There is a limit though. Shifting
takes time and thus you don't want to have a zillion gears spaced 0.99
apart with an engine with a big SPIKE for it's powerband :). That is
why Formula 1 and Indy cars are generally limited to 6-7 gears. Ramanan
has gone the other way by using a non-vtec tranny and GSR motor in hopes
of being able to stay in 3rd for his 1/4 mile run. With his particular
setup, that may just be the way to go for a 1/4 mile run. However, with
my 7000 rpm redline, the shorter gearing I can get the better. I have
to make 4 shifts during my 1/4 mile runs (I get into 5th), but all are
pretty quick and I'm definitely getting better times due to the gearing."
Kaz Mori (mail@removed.com)
"Jerome mentioned the ideal of having infinite gears. On a related note,
Nissan has mated a 200hp engine to a CVT, and Honda claims it can build a
CVT that can take up to 300hp... As you know, until now, the only "real"
CVT was the one that's in the HX, but only takes 117hp or so.
Hmmm... The CVT is actually quite efficient, and it infinitely geared --
if it's strong enough, we may see it in place of the sequential shifters..."
[Ed : okay this is initially Ramanan's thoughts, but read his followup
a bit later, and he's had a change of thoughts.]
Ramanan Thiagarajah (mail@removed.com)
"Reading Jerome's article on the differences between running the LS tranny
and the GS-R tranny, irrespective on which motor combination, I have some
input on the application-side of it. Leaving the number-crunching and
theoretical side out of it... (once an understanding of the numbers have been
established, testing follows) here goes on what happened from a GS-R to LS
tranny switch on the B18C motor.
The first outcome is lower figures on the dyno... this is in the 9 - 12%
range. The thing is that most dyno-testing is done in 3rd gear and just a
7% reduction (as Jerome's figures indicate) is accurate, but it ends up
being more because it just takes longer for the motor to wind out... every
increment in RPM's is affected... the gearing itself produces lower torque
values and at the same time the motor's capacity to rev-up decreases also.
On the track... 60-foot etc. DOES NOT CHANGE... this follows from the fact
that 1st and 2nd gears are the same. On the switch to 3rd, however, there
is a noticeable RPM drop and it just takes that much longer for 3rd to wind
out.From around 6500 to 9000 RPM's it seems that the car MOVES more... even
though it revs out noticeably slower. E.T's are affected slightly (around
15/100 to 20/100 seconds slower) and MPH seems unaffected (this is difficult
to determine as I was bracket-racing and couldn't really guage this
accurateley)
On another point. A friend had the B18C with the GS-R tranny and made an
almost IDENTICAL power-band on the dyno as I did with the B18C and the LS
tranny. Peak horsepower was identical as well as the curve from 6000 to 9000
rpms (this being appropriate for drag-racing). On the track.. after at least
10 - 12 runs... (driver-error can be discounted)... E.T's were consistently
0.4 - 0.6 seconds apart with the B18C/LS outdoing the B18C/GS-R.
The part I am not clear in is if the power-band and tranny combo is more
important than just the tranny itself. I mean if a motor made peak horsepower
but a very poor band and we had a tranny (very short gears) that made use
of this very narrow band of horsepower, then it would be good..."
--- discovery! ---
"Never mind the hype on the numbers and the ratios of these trannys, but
god---m.... this thing is crazy. It is a TREMENDOUS difference (seat-of-the-
pants type) after the switch from LS to Y2 <=== my correction.
First gear pulls much harder, but the crazy part is the switch to 2nd... oh my!
The rpm's drop literally about 50% of what they used to.. at a 8500 shift it
drops to ~7100 and spins literally (no exaggeration) the WHOLE of 2nd gear...
and these arn't stock VX tires... DUNLOP SP2000 205/50/15's. Shift to 3rd and
it lights up... the drop is the same.. to 7100. You don't notice how quicker
it revvs up until you hit 3rd... it is a HUGE difference. 3rd obviously takes
a little longer to wind-out and hit 4th... tires spin a bit and in my estimate
the 1/4 ends just before the end of 4th. With 20" slicks I estimate the 1320
ending at around 8700 in 4th gear.
To whoever reads this... guys/girls... if you can somehow get this or the
Type-R tranny.... or at least the gears and switch them to your LS or GS-R's...
PLEASE DO SO.... the difference is incredible. I have NEVER felt such a big
difference out of anything that I have done to the motor... I don't know how
this will translate to E.T's but it WORKS.... I am just so ecstatic."
[Ed : Jerome, you should feel pretty vindicated about your 1/4 mile times now.]
11.0 Brakes
There's a couple kinds of brake fade. Brake fade is the inability of the car's
braking system to function properly due to overuse of the brakes.
Heat is the main culprit. There are many things to upgrade to prolong maximum
brake performance.
Again, another heated issue (is this getting to be a cliche yet?) You need
to determine whether or not you car needs race brake pads or street
enthusiast ones.
Racing brake pads tend to leave a very stubborn dust on wheels and the body
paint. This requires constant cleaning lest it bonds permanently. Some race
pads are extremely noisy and may even destroy rotors in a few
days/weeks/months (depending on how you drive!)
Many people have had good success with Repco/Axxis MetalMaster pads. Other
brands to look into are Hawk, Performance Friction, and Porterfields.
Theoretically, the extreme heat build up between the brake pad and the rotor
causes gases to be released from the brake pad. The pad is then riding on
this thin layer of gas and is not able to fully contact the rotor. You push
harder on the brakes but even more gases are released and so the braking
effectiveness is decreased. This is known as pad fade. A cross drilled or
slotted rotor provides a channel for the gases to evacuate.
Be careful using drilled rotors since they may cause uneven brake pade wear
and sometimes are prone to cracking (the drilling causes weakness in the
rotor)
It should be mentioned by drilling the rotors, you will actually create less
surface area to dissipate heat. Your mileage may vary with cross drilled
rotors.
Other shops slot their rotors. This involves creating a groove (slot) into the
rotor. The idea behind this modification is to allow an edge on the rotor for
the brake pad to bite into. By slotting the rotors, you can ensure even brake
pad wear as well. Theoretically the slotting of rotors would increase surface
area, so you might be able to expect a cooler rotor.
IMHO, I upgrading your rotors may not be a worthwhile effort. I would only
do so if you have a severe brake fade problem. Most street enthusiast
driving does not punish the brakes hard enough.
When brake fluid gets hot enough it boils. Like many other aspects of
automotive performance, high temperature brake fluid has its compromise.
In order to make a brake fluid withstand high temperatures, it tends to
absorb water very quickly. Thus all brake fluids are rated at two
temperatures, wet (absorbed water) and dry (no water).
WARNING! High performance brake fluids tend to absorb water quickly,
and some need to be bled before each race. Bleeding your brake fluid is
important to your master cylinder life. On aged hondas, its common for the
Master Cylinder to go bad gradually. If you notice that the brakes are mushy
and start to fade in traffic or on hot days, especially if it you've just bled
the brakes, then you've got a bad Master Cylinder. Your local big parts store
should have rebuilt master cylinders with a life time warranty for not too
much money. Fix it fast or you may regret it. We don't want to have to tell
your next-of-kin that we told you so.
Again a lot of people have their favorites of fluid to purchase. Motul, Castrol
Heavy Duty, Wilwood 570, Lucas Girling DOT 5.1, and Super ATE.
In a word no. Aftermarket lines improve the feel of the brakes; offering
a firmer, more positive feeling of control to the driver. A low buck tuner
way to make the brake lines firmer feeling is to use zip ties around the
softer OEM brake lines.
From Frank Lin : (mail@removed.com)
"When Z.Speed looked into getting DOT approval for their stainless lines, they
found that there is no certification process. There is a spec for brake lines
however. Z.Speed's lines meets or exceeds the DOT standard.
When SMC first started selling lines (early 96), they were selling Goodridge
lines (which claimes to be the 1st DOT approved lines). I'm not sure if SMC sell
their own lines now.
Stillen also recently started to market Goodridge lines."
From : Kenneth Sax (mail@removed.com)
"[Previously Adam Kim disagreed w/ Ken Sax about the DOT classification]
>I thought that the DOT ratings were federally mandated ratings that goes
>as follows (dry boiling point):
>DOT3= 401 degrees F
>DOT4= 446
>DOT5= 500
>I believe that wet boiling points are about 120 degress less than the
>dry boiling point in these ratings.
Yes:
DOT3= 284
DOT4= 311
DOT5= 356
But these are MINIMUM standards. Thus Adam is correct in implying that
Motul (Motul Racing Brake Fluid 600) actually meets the boiling point
standards for DOT5 since it has a dry boiling point of 585?F (307?C), wet
421?F (216?C). And they COULD call themselves DOT 5.1 but not DOT 5, which
is what they call SBBF, or silicone-base brake fluid. If you read the
Federal regulations closely (TITLE 49, PART 571, Subpart B, Sec. 571.116,
Standard No. 116; Motor vehicle brake fluids.), it says that DOT5 must be
labeled as either SBBF or as DOT 5.1 non-SBBF. There are other
requirements for DOT5, too (such as color - purple). I suspect Motul (and
most other manufacturers) find it easier and less confusing to call
themselves DOT4 than to refer to their fluid as DOT 5.1 and take the risk
(proven here) that people will THINK they are the silicone-based DOT5
fluid.
So as it turns out Adam was right that there are boiling point standards
for each DOT grade of fluid. Live and learn. I found this out about it at
the DOT website at http://www.access.gpo.gov/nara/cfr/cfr-table-search.html
where I found the reg noted above.
From : mail@removed.com (Chris Capowski)
"You guys are all right about certain brake fluid DOT 3,4,5 dry boiling
points. The reason why there are a lot of DOT 3's with really high dry
boiling points, is because they DO NOT meet the requirements for DOT 4 or
5 WET boiling points. This is why racing brake fluid (the real stuff) is
only DOT 3. Racers don't care about the wet boiling point, they change
their brake fluid after every race, and so it never gets a chance to
absorb moisture. And only DOT 3 should be used in a race car, the DOT 4
and DOT 5 fluids (especially the silicone based stuff) are more
compressable than DOT 3, and reduce the effectiveness of the brakes.
They also tend to foam more."
From : Kenneth Sax (mail@removed.com)
">Why are the DOT 4 and DOT 5 more compressible than the DOT 3 fluids?
They're not. They don't foam more, either."
12.0 Wheels
Diameter : This refers to the diameter of the wheel. Most people regard
a large wheel as attractive. Remember larger wheels tend to weigh more.
Offset : This refers to the distance in mm between the centerline and
the mounting surface of the wheel. If you're unsure of what this means check
out http://www.tirerack.com/wheels/tech/wheeltech.htm for a diagram better
illustrating this.
Width : This refers to how wide the wheel is. This determines what tire widths
the wheel can accomodate. The general width rule is that the wheel width
should be no less than 70% of the tire width.
When choosing wheels and tires, it's a good idea to ensure that the overall
diameter of the new combination is +/- 2% of the OEM configuration. Your
speedometer will be changed as well as your effective gear ratio. You may
want to rethink your car's shift points.
Once you've determined what wheel diameter you're interested in, and what
tires size will make a good combination ... it's time to measure your
inner clearance. I'd recommend turning your car's front wheels completely
to the left and right and checking clearance.
Also jack up one corner of the car at a time to compress the opposite corner
of the car. Doing this you can get an idea of what kind of clearance your car
has under hard cornering or loaded down.
If you're looking for a way to calculate wheel/tire combinations, check out :
http://mr2.com/cgi-bin/tires.cgi
For handling, the widest width for the tire and lightness are desirable. The
wider wheel ensures a stabler tire contact patch and minimizes tire sidewall
flex. You're sure to get as much of your tire rubber down on the pavement
where it needs to be. Having light wheels reduces the amount of unsprung
weight. Unsprung weight is an area we'll neglect to mention, but suffice it
so say less is good. For more wheel information, again consult :
http://www.tirerack.com/wheels/tech/wheeltech.htm
For acceleration, you want lightness and perhaps a shorter wheel/tire
combination than the stock setup. With lighter wheels, the engine uses less
power accelerating the wheels' mass. With a shorter tire/wheel combination,
you can effectively change your gear ratio for the better. Don't go too short,
otherwise you'll have to shift every 20 feet. ;D
From: Kin Leong (mail@removed.com)
"I had the opportunity to weigh a couple of 16" wheels when I had my new
wheels & tires installed this past week. I decided to do this after an
inspiring discussion with Jerome on "weigh reduction" at our last
"rained out" drag meet.
I weighed 4 different wheels that were available to me -- all were 16".
The results were:
TSW Blade 16 lbs each $280Cdn
TSW Hock R 18 lbs each $290Cdn
Inter Milano 13 lbs each $300Cdn
ASA FS-6 16 lbs each $160Cdn
For further comparison, I weighed my stock tires & wheels to compare
them to the new 16" wheels. FYI, I have a 1990 Integra GS 4-door, so
the factory wheels were the full face style that had about 21
unidirectional slits around the edge. The results were:
33 lbs each Factory 14" mag + Yoko AVS U+4 in 195/60-14
36 lbs each ASA 16" mag + Toyo FZ4 in 205/45-16
My conclusions from this:
- Expensive mags are not necessary the lightest.
- The more open the mag's style, the more likely that it's lighter.
- Larger size tires weigh more. Especially performance tires that has
a firmer construction (in plys and belts)."
[Ed : Generally bigger wheels will weigh more than smaller wheels.
Think about it. Also, I'd expect a tire and air to weigh less
than solid metal itself. Don't you think? Remember don't go
with too heavy wheels! Some Japanese wheels are made
to be light SSR Type X wheels for example. 11lbs each I think.]
From: Natural One GSR (mail@removed.com)
"The 5 Zigen Div.3s are pretty light at 12pds for the 16". "
From: RYAN B YEE (mail@removed.com)
"SSR TYPE X 10.5lbs
MUGEN SUPER WEAPON RNR 4.95kgs
SPOON SPORTS SW388 3.88kgs"
OEM wheels are hubcentric. They are produced in such a way that they fit snugly
on the hub (wheel mount location). The hub has a ridge on it that mates to the
backside of the wheel. This is done to ensure proper centering
of the wheel on the hub.
Aftermarket wheels are usually overbored on the
backside for different car applications.
Special adapter rings are manufactured for individual
cars to ensure their wheel is
hub-centered when mounted.
If not properly centered, you can have a steering wheel shimmy.
13.0 Tires
People look at tires primarily in these ways : cost, life, noise, wet
performance, and dry performance.
Manufacturers take all of these factors and more into account when making
tires. Currently there is no miracle tire that will do everything you want
the best. So choose your tire carefully within your budget.
It's not so much the low profile tires, it's more of the volume of air you
have now. If you've chosen a wise tire/wheel combination and haven't reduced
your volume of air much, expect your ride quality to be the same.
For cornering, you usually want enough air pressure in the tire to avoid
tire rollover. Tire rollover is indicated by the scuff marks you see on
the sidewall after some spirited driving.
Here's an easy test to figure out how much rollover there is : Put some
chalk across the outer edge of your tire until 1 - 2 inches onto the
sidewall. You can use shoe polish too. Go out and take a turn hard.
Wherever the tire met the pavement is where your marks will be missing.
So you can determine how much rollover you're experiencing! Start with
recommended tire pressures from the factory and add or reduce air psi
until you like the ride quality and cornering attitude.
Remember FWD Hondas usually understeer by design. You usually want more
tire rollover in back in order to make the rear end turn better.
It all depends on how you define "good" Usually the best gripping tires wear
out in less than 30k miles, some even as little as 10k miles (any NSX owners
out there?) If you choose a reputable company's top notch Z rated tire, you
won't be disappointed although you will notice a hefty price tag on them.
Budget accordingly.
Some good high performance tires are Dunlop Sp Sport 8000, Yokohama AVS-i,
Bridgetsone S0-1, etc etc
Engineers design the suspension of a car to perform certain alignment
changes when under compression (weight transfer, bodyroll, cornering, etc)
Usually a typical Honda suspension experiences toe in/out(?) as well as
negative camber under cornering. This is done to ensure the car
maintains as much tire footprint as possible under cornering.
So when you lower the car, the suspension becomes
partially compressed causing your suspension to think you're
cornering 24 hours/day. While this is great for cornering,
this is bad for tire life for long distance driving.
When driven in a straight line, the tires ride on the inner
most edge causing extremely short tire life. IMHO, it's
the combination of toe and negative camber that causes
rapid tire wear (see NSX owners' tire woes)
To correct the camber, you usually need to purchase some kind of
camber kits. See camber kits.
Stiffer isn't better. Be VERY careful when modifying your suspension. Make
sure you understand what you're trying to fix by switching out parts and
changing alignment settings.
Make sure your familiar with the principles of weight transfer as well as
understeer and oversteer. Keep in mind your vehicle's weight distribution
and drivetrain layout.
14a.0 Springs
This is a very personal question you should ask yourself. :D There are
hundreds of hopped up Hondas with ground clearance of no more than a few
inches. Some say this is attractive looking and good for cornering.
Although a lower center of gravity is desirable, the struts on these
cars are usually riding on the bumpstops. This results in suspension
bottoming very frequently (not a very comfortable experience) With the
limited range of travel, you may actually hinder the suspensions ability to
put down the maximum tire contact patch on uneven roads (which road is ever
perfectly clean and flat eh?)
Be careful not to go too low, especially when travelling over various
environments (snow, mud, flood, grass, dirt, and even big potholes) I've had
a friend who put a huge dent and gouges into his oil pan from a large pothole
when he dragged (at this point I wouldn't call it driving) his lowered
car over it.
Finally the last concern is tire wear. Lowering a Honda results in a some
negative camber (an alignment change). The negative camber makes the top of
your tires tilt inwards. When driving in a turn, the tires sit up straight
which is great for cornering. However in a straight line, they ride along the
inner edge of the tire, resulting in heavy uneven tire wear.
Conservative lowerings are usually 1-1.5" A heavy street enthusiast lowering
is 1.75"-2.25" inches. A race car lowering is 2.25" or more. Keep in mind, race
cars get hurt frequently and racers don't mind hurting them. Would you mind
hurting your street car frequently?
A linear rate spring has the same stiffness throughout its compression. A
progressive one is wound in such a way that as it gets compressed more, the
spring rate (stiffening) goes up. This is a good compromise for the cornering
demons out there who want a really stiff spring but need a more compliant
suspension during regular street driving.
IMHO, any lowering spring will wear out OEM struts faster. But a conservative
lowering (~1 inch) should be okay for the OEM struts. Stiffer springs and the
extra shock compression from lowering tends to put a big strain on the struts.
So be sure to save yourself headaches and do the struts at the same time.
Well if you use the formula for spring rate, know how much you want
to lower your car, and have shocks the can compensate for the increase
in spring rate, then you should have no problems doing so.
It remains to be seen whether or not cutting OEM springs down
for a 1.5-3 inch ride height drop increases the spring rate
hideously.
Aftermarket springs do offer : progessive rate winding, lowering with
a tested spring rate, and the option to return to stock springs
in the future. And usually are very reasonably priced.
Can you afford it? :D A good alignment is
recommended for tire life, not necessarily
for cornering. You may need camber kits, and your toe should be adjusted too.
If you've done a very mild drop, I think you can forgoe the alignment
until necessary.
From: Kurt Bilinski (mail@removed.com)
"Here is the formula to calculate spring stiffness:
Spring rate = (Gd^4) / (8ND^3)
G = torsional modulus for steel = 11.25 x 10^6.
d = wire diameter
N = Number of _active_ coils.
D = Mean coil diameter in inches
8 = Constant
The important thing is, since someone [here on HP-list] just want[s] to cut
their existing springs, all the above values remain fixed,
except for N, so the equation reduces down to:
New (shorter) spring rate =
original spring rate * (original turns / new turns)
So if you decrease the active turns by half, the spring gets
twice as stiff, not softer as has been discussed.
How about we do a little more engineering and a little less
"I think it's this way". This stuff has known for years,
let's use it. It's not like these books are hard to find,
just call MotorBooks who's ad is always in Road and Track."
From: David Mackintosh (mail@removed.coml)
"Yes, and it's really very simple with straight-rate springs (like the one in
your ball-point pen).
Unfortunately, with progressive rate springs, the number of active (or
"free") coils is not constant as they are compressed. Each free coil will
compress the same amount (x/N), but the coils that are closer together will
meet (reducing N), making the spring progressively (get it?) stiffer. Even
worse, I notice that the lower ends of the springs (where they seat in the
shock perches) have a smaller coil diameter, so D doesn't really remain
constant (probably close enough, though) if a stock-type spring is cut or
compressed.
If you're trying to be precise, don't forget to adjust N for the spring end
treatment (cut, ground, flattened)!
The wheel rate may not be a simple function of the spring rate as the
suspension is compressed!
I'm just trying to show that although there is a very simple formula for
calculating spring rate, there is a lot more to consider in suspension
design. Although most people probably cut their springs without regard for
the change in rates, they may or may not have undesired handling effects.
The rates will be higher, though, and stiffer shocks should be used.
Personally, I feel that springs are the cheapest (less than good tires)
handling improvement you can make, and given that you need stiffer shocks
anyway, it's not worth trying to save a few bucks here by chopping your
stock springs."
GrassRoots Motorsports has an extremely well written in-depth
tech page regarding the equation and real world scenarios.
Check it out!
14b.0 Struts/Shocks
Compression refers to how a shock compresses under load (spring compressing
the shock). Rebound refers to how fast the shock returns to its original
position (spring allowed to return to its original shape).
It would make sense to fine tune both of these to improve handling.
Some non adjustable shocks tend to be unbearingly stiff. Choose your shock
wisely. Adjustable shocks are definitely worth the extra money because of
the flexibility with suspension tuning and daily comfort.
It's been reported that Tokico Blue shocks are equivalent to a setting 4
on Tokico's Illuminas.
Bumpstops are cheap but effective way of halting suspension travel.
Bumpstops sit on the strut/shock shaft and prohibit the spring from fully
compressing the strut/shock. Thereby limiting the amount of suspension
travel.
When you lower your car, you decrease the distance of suspension
travel (because your car's suspension is partially compressed)
What some spring manufacturer's recommend is to cut the bumpstop
to lengthen your travel. This can have some possible negative
effects (like arranging a blind date between your upper A-arm and your
engine bay)
Follow the spring manufacturer's tech advice. Most recommend trimming the
bumpstop. This helps provide more suspension travel especially
for lowered cars.
FWIW, all lowering springs should increase the spring rate in the correct
proportion to the amount of lowering. What this means is, the spring
should be stiffer to make up for the lessened suspension travel distance.
You shouldn't need to cut your bumpstops if your spring has been engineered
right in the first place! What this also means is this, do not expect a
OEM ride with stiffer springs! You wanna go low, pay for it with ride quality.
I won't come right out and bash any particular spring companies, as most
of them do make high quality springs. But some of these "performance" springs
are really springs just to lower your car; and trimming the bumpstop keeps you from
bottoming the suspension out which in turn gives an
illusion of a halfway decent ride
quality. And if you're bottoming out, well the companies figure half of these young
Honda owners don't even know what it is anyhow.
WARNING! Do not purchase Tokico Illuminas with aggressive lowering springs for
3rd generation Integras. Konis are a good match with Neuspeed springs.
The Integra Web Page Editors are still investigating this issue, more information
to come.
14c.0 Swaybars
When weight comes down on corner of the car, the sway bar actually twists
in such a way that it forces the opposite side's tire down and bringing
the acted upon corner up. This also prohibits weight transfer to the
end of the car with the sway bar.
So with a sway bar you can further reduce body roll, keeping the
chassis flat. By reducing bodyroll, ideally the tires
are allowed a better contact patch. Typically the removal
of the weight on the sway bar end of the car removes traction
moreso than the gain in traction by the elimination of bodyroll provided.
In other words, the end that has the sway bar will have less traction.
If you wish to only eliminate bodyroll, be sure to select a matched
sway bar set if you don't wish to upset your car's weight transfer
characteristics too much during cornering.
An easy trick to get a FWD car to turn better is to disconnect the
front sway bar. Problem is you will suffer from more bodyroll in front.
Typically this is done in stock classes of autocrossing as the rules
disallow rear sway bar changes.
It would seem the best thing to do to make a Honda FWD car corner better
is to simply upgrade the rear sway bar. Unfortunately no one sells
just a rear sway bar tuned for an OEM front bar setup. Most of the companies
will sell their rear sway bar individually, but use caution. These
rear bars come in a matched set. So expect the rear sway bar to overpower
a stock front sway bar. The car will get particularly tail happy
when lifting while turned or braking while turned. So make sure you know
how to handle oversteer.
I've been informed that Neuspeed does offer a rear bar tuned for the
front sway bar on 1992-1995 Civics and 1994-1997 Integras (although
they do upgrade the bushings up front too)
14d.0 Chassis Braces/Roll cages/bars
14e.0 Misc suspension components
Most recent generation Honda/Acura cars have Honda's double wishbone (unequal
length control arms) configuration on the front suspension. This uses
a shock and spring configuration in which the camber line is NOT determined
by the angle of the shaft of the shock. Strut type suspensions require camber
plates in which the angle of the shaft of the strut can be adjusted to dial in
the needed camber.
On the recent generations, the high upper A-arm is responsible for determining
the camber of your front suspension. A camber kit for the front suspension
consists of an entire replacement upper A-arm with adjustable links in the arm.
The adjustable length arms can be extended or shortened. If you pull off your
front tires and look at the upper A-arm, you can see that shortening the arms
will give you more negative camber and lengthening the arms will give you more
positive camber.
In the rear, the recent suspensions have been of a rear trailing arm with two
lateral links. Again, pull off your rear tire and notice that the larger lateral
link is what determines the camber of the rear suspension. The camber kit for
this involves replacing this larger lateral link with one that is adjustable
in length. Extending the link gives you more positive camber while shortening the
length gives you more negative camber.
Currently ZSpeed and Specialty Products(Jackson Racing, Lightspeed,
perhaps Eibach distribute the latter) make camber kits for Hondas.
I've had problems with the SP front camber kits and would not recommend
them although they are much cheaper than ZSpeed's rebuilt
front a-arms.
It should be noted that in my experience any reputable alignment shop
should be able to order Specialty Product camber kits. So you don't have to
buy through the expen$ive middleman speed shop. Shop around to save money.
A low buck tuner method of correcting rear tire camber is to use
some washers in back to lengthen the lateral link. By having
more positive camber in back than front, you also reduce the amount
of understeer.
From: Joe Fertitta Jr (mail@removed.com)
"Some info that you may find useful. I found a company that just made
available adjustable camber kits for honda\acura vehicles. They are
Ingalls Alignment Products. The kit we need is p/n 3570. They can be
reached at 800-641-9795. They don't sell direct to the public but can
refer you to someone in your area who does. Here where I live they run
$40.00 to $50.00...much cheaper than the z.speed control arms. Hope
this helps."
The OEM bushing material is generally rubber. Bushings go in
between suspension joints to allow the suspension to move freely
without having metal on metal contact at the joints. Performance
bushings generally are made of a harder and longer lasting
poly-urethane. The harder bushings allow the suspension to react
much quicker under load and transfer its movements to other
suspension components quicker. Since the poly bushings deform less
than rubber ones, the suspension is much more nimble feeling
and precise. The obvious compromise here is that the ride quality
will suffer.
Every driver has their own preference for how a car handles.
So you should understand what handling characteristics
you want. Do you want oversteer, understeer, neutral?
And remember these usually change for different
vehicle speeds.
Typically on FWD Hondas, you want more front end bite with
a lot less rear end bite. So you want more toe-in, and negative
camber in front. In back more toe-out and positive camber.
Remember these settings DO affect tire life considerably.
Consult your local performance minded alignment shop
for recommendations.
From : Jerome Soh (mail@removed.com)
"Let's say you have a 1600 lb box with equal springs (let's say 200 lb/in)
at each corner of the box. Let's also say you have 4 scales of negligible
height, like those ones built into the floor that you find at Airports.
Since each spring has to support 400 lbs, each will compress 2" in the
static state. If we put a scale under each spring, we will get a reading
of 400 lbs at each scale.
Now let's say we replace one spring with a 1" shorter spring but
with the SAME spring rate of 200 lb/in. As we SLOWLY lower the box on
to the scales, each of the other 3 springs will compress 1" and ALREADY
have to support 200 lbs BEFORE the 4th corner even comes into contact
with the scale (this is analogous to the rear of the car coming into
contact with the ground first). ONCE the 4th corner comes into contact
with the scale, it shares the remaining load with the other 3 corners.
Since there is still 1000 lbs of total load left to share (1600 - 600
already taken up by the 3 corners), each will compress a further 1.25".
Thus, the first 3 springs compress a total of 2.25" while the 4th
compresses a total of 1.25". The weight distribution at the corners are
as follows: 450 lbs at the 3 corners, 250 lbs at the 4th corner. Thus,
you can see that lowering one corner actually REMOVES weight
distribution at that corner and puts it at the other corners... it's the
same thing with cars. Lowering the front will put more weight on the
rears.
Most of this stuff is covered in very basic books on performance
handling. I'm surprised that you work for a racing team and don't know
this. Perhaps you and your team members would benefit from reading a
couple of books on suspension tuning for race cars. This is not a
flame... just trying to help.
From : sawyer@waterville.com (mail@removed.com)
"Raising the corner of a car increases the weight on that corner. It's as if
you are pushing that corner of the car down into the ground harder.
For a better explanation, everyone should go read the recent issue of
Grassroots Motorsports detailing suspension theories. After that, come back
and argue if you want."
From : Dave (mail@removed.com)
"which reminds me of a time when i was tuning the suspension
on my first auto-x car...
i remember putting the car on corner weight scales, then moving the
battery from the front right corner, to the rear spare tire well.
the battery weight was removed from the front right, but the same
amount of weight and then some, was moved to the left rear...
left front was slightly lighter, and so was the right rear...
in other words, all that weight went to the left rear.
after retuning the "compressable" susp, all was balanced again.
so like Jerome says, it's not as simple as you may think.
BTW, the 10 sec hondas dont lower the front for more static weight
in the front... it's for better weight transfer."
15.0 Drag Racing Results
Depending on driver, running condition, and environment here are some ranges
of times to expect.
Typical Bolt On Mods (tbody, ignition, headers, exhaust, intake, chip)
Accord 16.0s-->17.5s
Civic 15.8s-->17.5s
CRX 15.3s-->16.5s
delSol 15.1s-->16.0s
Integra 14.8s-->16.2s
Legend ??
NSX 14.0s-->14.5s
Prelude 14.5s-->16.5s
TL, RL, CL ??
Vigor ??
Frank Lin has been compiling a list of 1/4 mile times for quite some time now.
When looking at some of the quick times, remember that some of these
cars have been gutted to reduce weight.
Check it out! http://www.ccnet.com/~fmlin/pbh/fastest/
Thanks Frank!
When you get your time slip, you should look at three numbers. Your reaction
time, your E.T., and your trap speed.
The reaction time DOES NOT factor into your 1/4 mile time. Do not subtract
your reaction time from your E.T. Maybe this is why everyone claims they're doing
fast fast fast 1/4 miles w/o much modifications! ;D
The E.T. is your official 1/4 mile time pass (elapsed time, I think)
Trap speed indicates what kind of horsepower you're pushing (or if you were
sandbagging)
(I put this in here for you Ken!)
Ken Woods and Dave H. wrote up a series of emails detailing what to do and not to do
and how to prepare yourself for a day at the drag strip.
Great info, and highly recommended reading. Check it out!
From: Ken Woods (mail@removed.com)
"Seeing as how nobody else wanted to.....
Powershifting:
Don't lift the throttle, just barely touch the clutch, and slam the lever
into gear.
Speedshifting:
Lift the throttle, just barely touch the clutch, and slam the lever
into gear.
Which one to use???
Depends.
If you powersfhit and the wheels spin, then don't powershift for that gear
change. ie...if the 1st to 2nd shift spins when you powershift, then
speedshift the next run. "
From: Ken Woods (mail@removed.com)
"HP=((trapspeed/234)^3) * weight
Anyhow, here's the chart.
Weight
2000 2400 2800 3200 3600 4000
MPH
90 114 137 160 182 205 228
95 134 161 188 214 241 268
100 156 187 218 250 281 312
105 181 217 253 290 326 362
110 208 250 291 333 374 416
115 237 284 332 379 427 474
120 270 324 378 432 486 540
125 305 366 427 488 549 610
130 343 412 480 549 617 686
135 384 461 538 614 691 768
140 428 514 599 685 770 856
145 476 571 666 762 857 952
150 527 632 738 843 949 1054
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